Mary Roslin Williams of Mansergh Gundogs

She bred Labs, she hunted over Labs, she competed with Labs and she taught about Labs. She had seven generations of champions, and 15 or so dogs who won field trial awards.

In the early days, she lived in Mansergh Parish, just south of the Lake District in England.

Mary Roslin Williams taught from practical experience and common sense.

Although she’s no longer with us, she left behind knowledge that she shared. Read a bit and then take a half hour to listen.

 

The start of the show/field divide

“I started this book by pointing out that at any one time there are about twenty top breeders who can and do stay at the top for many years, but when I come to the breeders who can show their dogs as Championship show-prize winners and also run them in Trials as Trial dogs, accepted as such by the Trial people and not called ‘Bl—y show dogs’ as is their wont, then I find it hard to name twenty kennels that can do this in the last forty years.

“Before the last War there were plenty of strains capable of doing this, indeed it was more or less the norm. The whole atmosphere of Labrador breeding was different, with such people as Lorna, Countess Howe seeing to it that the show Labrador remained a working dog. … The dogs were good-looking on proper Labrador lines, they were thoroughly experienced shooting dogs and cut out their own work with the minimum of help from their handlers, although always ready to take the hint when they were stuck. The good work on the day was put in by the dogs and not the handlers, and while Lady Howe was alive this happy state of affairs, when Trials were fun and you and your dogs welcome, remained until the sad day she died, when we immediately feared and experienced the Great Divide, into entirely show bloodlines and entirely Field Trial, poles apart.”

A water dog

“It’s a great sadness to me, that when they named the Labrador they didn’t call it the ‘Labrador Water Retriever’ … because we forget that the dog is a water dog.

“It’s job was water work. It’s job still is water work and we’ve adopted it and adapted it for different works. But in many countries that we sell our puppies to … they expect that dog to work in water. Very largely. And if you sell a dog to Canada it will be working in water in terrible frost. In cold water. Hours at a time. We ought to remember that, both when we breed and when we judge….

Defining type

“The next thing is the Labrador is a Labrador. Now here is a difficult thing because this is type and however much you have a standard, one thing it cannot describe is type. You’ve got to have type in your head. … Perhaps type varies a little from country to country. …

“My criterion for Labrador type is a very simple one. It must look like a Labrador. It mustn’t look like a Foxhound. It mustn’t look like a Pointer … It mustn’t look like a Golden Retriever. …

Pointer

“You get unmanageability. It’s an outward bound dog. It’s horizon is 300 yards away. It’s hind legs make it gallop because they can’t help galloping. It’s head is held too high. It’s elbow is angulated for a high head carriage and you don’t want it in a Labrador. We used to get it. And besides that we’ve always got a very, very short coat.”

Foxhound

“The Foxhounds came in deliberately. … And what came with it? Arrogance… When he went to judgment, instead of looking at you like a Labrador should – they did that (turned head away) – with the proudest, most arrogant expression. Now that got into the breed very badly, so that we had championship show judges writing in their critique … correct arrogant expression…. It’s absolutely wrong.

“And the other terrible fault we got in there was that they were very fastidious. … They did not like opening their mouths in dirty water. I can’t blame them. I don’t like opening my mouth in dirty water. And I don’t intend to which is why I have a dog…”

Flatcoat

“Now the next thing that happened was that somebody realized this and they quietly moved in a Flatcoat. Now that did a power of good. But we had a Flatcoat influence. One of the reasons why I hate a black eye in a Labrador was that was brought in. We brought in narrow heads, Flatcoat eyes. Flatcoat shaped eyes. And we had a lot of feathering….

“Labrador breeders are so sensible they can get these things out. It took some years and we left the good points in. We lost the arrogance. We lost the hardness and we got dogs that would retrieve nicely again…”

Greyhound

“Now the next thing that came in – and I don’t know where it came in – and I could never get Ronnie Hill to tell me, but what he knew was that the trial people introduced Greyhound. And they introduced Greyhound purely to get the speed.

“Now that influence is still with us. And if you look at the trial Labradors, you’ll see that a lot of them have very, very beautiful necks and shoulders. Marvelous necks. Way, way beyond our reach of neck. Really beautiful necks and shoulders. And they have the deep body, then the tell-tale arch over the loin. And that is the most difficult thing to breed out, to get the field trial arch out of the loin. And then they have long, thin tails and single coats. …

“So I’m warning you, if you use field trial lines you get the virtues, you get the faults, but worse still you get their diseases. And this is why I am so against any Labrador looking like anything – or particularly feeling like anything – when you’re judging that isn’t a Labrador. But as you get in other breeds and you will get in diseases …

“So therefore my first Labrador has been a water dog. My second Labrador, for heaven sake, let it be a Labrador and let it look like a Labrador. Let it behave like a Labrador and feel like a Labrador and work like a Labrador.”

Importance of a correct coat

“… I do wish that everybody … would remember that the Labrador is a cold, wet weather dog and that he’s a water dog. And that it should be able to go out duck flighting in January in bitter, bitter weather sitting at the bottom of a cut in the sand with water up to its belly or even up to its neck. The tide coming in or out and it has to sit there for while the duck flighting in. A it is cold and it is wet and the dog must be able to stand it.

“…Please remember that that is the job of a Labrador. And they should have a proper coat. And it should coat them all over. [Some dogs] are half coated. They have a hard, hard ripple like a table runner down their backs. Very, very hard hair and they have nothing else. … And that is not a Labrador coat. The Labrador coat should cover all over to the same depth and be dense, but they’re very, very difficult to find now…

Why correct structure is important

“… a Labrador’s job is not to hunt in front of you, flushing rabbits, flushing pheasants, however good.

“It is not to be a guide dog for the blind.

“It is not to be a dog for finding drugs or any of these useful things [like] finding … a dead body… That’s not it’s job.

“It’s very nice of it to do it… but it is not it’s job.

“It’s job is to sit or walk at heel until told to go. And it’s only told to go either at the end of the drive or when the bird comes down if you’re in … a duck blind … and you want it to go. …”

A level back

“And for that you need a dog bred on exactly classical lines. And a classical line is a level back, not a rake. A level back. Any retrieving dog that has to also mark should have a level back. …

The neck

“It should have a longer back to its neck than to it’s throatline. … It should have an 11″ back to its neck and a 4″ throatline, not an 11″ throatline and 4” back.

“If it was a horse it would be putting it’s ear in your mouth…

“It’s very dangerous for a Labrador to have that enormous exposed windpipe… And then when they pick their bird, it stands to reason that… the long line is on the top and the short line is underneath.

The shoulders and angulation

“Now the shoulders should be laid back and this is very important too.

“In a pointing setter, they have a laid back shoulder. Fair enough. But they don’t have the classical right angle at the point of the shoulder. They are over angulated… We want the right angle or thereabouts give or take a few degrees.

“If you have a laid back shoulder, a right angle there and a level back … the foreleg comes back under the girth. It’s not under their ear and neither is it straight under the point of the shoulder. It is back and the elbow is under the girth.

“So there you have the exact angulation that the dog can easily mark the bird when he’s walking because it’s easy for him to have his head up. He can get a scent within a reasonable distance… and then put his head down. And he can get his head down perfectly easily without having to put his elbow out… So therefore you’ve got a perfect mechanism there.

“And he must have that long line on the top of his neck to pick his bird. He then picks his bird – which takes a lot of strength – and gets it back onto the layback of his shoulders easily carrying it on the layback of his shoulders.

“So if you have the classical front, that is exactly right for a Labrador, a Golden, a Flatcoat, a Curly, a Ches, but it isn’t right for a Pointer and Setter. And it isn’t right for a Foxhound. They have their own fronts, slightly open.

An example of why it matters

“… if you have an over angulated shoulder with open angles, like a Pointer and Setter – I’m citing one of my own dogs now.

“I had a lovely dog name Tarmac … and a very good worker. But I can cite him because he was wrongly made.

“He had a marvelously erect shoulder. He then had a raked back. And the consequence was that he was over angulated behind so that he had too much stifle and too much hock – too long a hock – and it was too far behind him. And that is what happens when you get a raked back.

“Now that was the most rightful inconvenience to him when he was swimming because he swam like a Pointer. …

“He was all right once he got the bird in his mouth, but when he didn’t have a bird in his mouth the fact that he didn’t have a level back and that he had an over angulated hind legs…, he had difficulty in the water work. So I know from experience that is not a good thing. …

“At one time because we had a craze for very, very short backs – which … is not short coupled, the word ‘short-coupled’ means the loin. … they were absolutely cramming dogs so close together that they had no where to put their feet when they ran. .. They were crabbing and they had a very short line … from the point of the hip to the point of the buttock, they had no rumps whatsoever.

“And I am quite certain for work – particularly swimming – you must have a decent balanced length from the point of the hip to the point of the buttock. …

Stance

“Now if you’ve got your backline right, then you’re going to have your angulation just about right.

“And it’s well to remember – again – that a Labrador is not meant to stand with it’s legs out behind it like a Pointer or a Setter. They’re meant to stand more or less under the point of the buttock. “In other words the dog is standing slightly over his leg and he mustn’t stand sickle-hocked with his feet too far forward.

“And a very important point, … for a perfectly balanced dog … from the hock to the ground … should be at exact right angles to the ground – not stretched out back, nor sickle underneath. …

“If that dog drops it’s hock correctly, then it is standing absolutely correct on it’s feet and you’re less likely to have foot trouble.

“… If you’ve got your angulation right and your level back, you’ve got a balanced dog standing on it’s feet correctly with it’s weight very, very slightly on it’s hocks … and it should stand in a position … that it could jump in any direction immediately. It can either jump forward or backwards or to either side because it’s slightly on it’s hocks.

“Those, to me, are the salient points of a Labrador’s conformation. …

“And besides that, …it has to have a tender mouth and the ability to retrieve, the ability to mark and a thousand other things that you have in field trials and it’s like trying to get your football pools right. You’ll never do it, but we try.”

# # #

For a fun walk down memory lane, read some reminiscences from MRW’s daughter, Anne.

Would you like to learn even more? MRW wrote two books – and although they can be hard to find and expensive – they are worth the effort.

The Dual-Purpose Labrador

Advanced Labrador Breeding (aka Reaching for the Stars)

A costume contest for pets got me thinking about what Halloween costumes for dogs might be available. I also needed coordinating costumes as my dogs, Chip, Tory and Arwen, would all be participating.

And, rather than buying something ready-made, I wanted to make the costumes myself.

Come along with me to learn about my thought process, what supplies I bought, and how I made the costumes.

The 3 Musketeers started it all

All for one, one for all!

Designing the costumes was interesting because they had to be instantly recognizable, but my dogs also had to walk in them. After a quick Google image search, I decided on hats with feather plumes and the signature musketeer tunic. I also bought plastic swords for all of them, but could only convince one dog that they weren’t chew toys.

I started by measuring each dog from just below their collar to just above their front feet. Then I measured in back from just below their collar to the base of their tail. I also measured across their chests, from the outside of one leg to the outside of the other leg. And finally I measured across their chest and shoulders and back around to the front. This measurement, less across the chest, gave me the top of the cape measurement. (Just in case, I added 2 inches.)

Next was calculating the amount of fabric needed and making a list of supplies.

After cutting out and test fitting, I stitched together the tunic and cape at the top corners. Then I glued gold braid around the edges of the fabric. I saved painting the crosses for last so I didn’t risk smearing the paint.

Next I reshaped the hats using moist heat and lots of patience. I attached the white feathers with a couple spots of glue. And finally I added some thin elastic as chin straps to keep the hats on their heads.

Luckily Labs don’t mind playing silly games like dress up! They did spectacularly and even won the costume contest at the local Labrador club.

Three Musketeers Halloween costume

Supplies

  • blue felt fabric
  • gold braid trim
  • gold fabric paint
  • 3 black cowboy hats
  • 3 fluffy white feathers
  • 3 plastic swords
  • hot glue gun and glue sticks
3 Labs dress up as ghosts and carry their own Jack O Latern

Supplies:

  • 3 white flat sheets
  • 3 plastic jack-o-lanterns

Trick or treating ghosts

What could be more iconic than ghosts on Halloween? Except these ghosts had four legs!

That year was a test of their obedience skills. They had to sit with sheets over their heads and carry plastic jack-o-lantern buckets.

Buying three flat sheets and three jack-o-lanterns was the easy part.

Next came draping a sheet over each dog and determining the best place to cut holes. It took some trial and error – with each dog – to find the perfect place and sizes for the holes. I made sure to start with small holes and test fitted before making the holes bigger.

My dogs were all taught to fetch on command, but it took a bit to convince them that fetch also applied to the thin bucket handles. After all, they were used to retrieving birds or a bumper.

Then they had to learn that I wanted them to sit, with a sheet draped over them, AND hold the bucket. And they had to do it at the same time and for long enough to get pictures.

They did it and got plenty of treats!

Four-legged duck hunters

The next year had to be something simple because I didn’t have time to make elaborate costumes for Halloween. So I dug out some hunting clothes – ball caps, camo shirts, duck calls, whistles, etc.

After getting them all dressed, something just didn’t look right. Off I went to the nearest thrift store where I found three pairs of kid’s pants in tan and green.

Getting all three dogs to wear the hats, shirts, whistles and duck calls was easy. Putting pants on them took a bit more work. =D

When they were dressed and sitting attentively, I took the picture. And just then the shotgun fell over. No, it wasn’t loaded, but it got their attention. As they moved, hats fell off, pant cuffs were stepped on and general mayhem ensued.

Good thing that one photo turn out so well!

Labradors dress up as duck hunters of Halloween
Follow the yellow brick road! The tin man, scarecrow and cowardly lion costumes

Follow the yellow brick road

As Halloween drew nearer, I was trying to come up with a theme so each dog would have a unique costume but be recognizable as a trio. Pairs are easy, threesomes take more work!

The Tin Man costume

I found a box as long as my dog from chest to tail. Next I taped the flaps to the inside and flipped the box over. Then I cut a large hole with about half on the front and half on the top. The hole should be just big enough for the dog’s head to slip through.

I tried painting the box silver, but it didn’t look metallic enough. Instead, I covered it in aluminum foil. It looked better, but made a crinkly noise when moved. It took some patience and a few practice sessions before Tory felt comfortable wearing the box.

I used an old metal funnel for the hat. After drilling a couple holes near the top of the funnel, I added some thin elastic to go under his chin.

Good thing he had learned the Stand for Exam obedience exercise!

The Scarecrow costume

Arwen‘s Scarecrow costume took some sewing and several fittings to come close to fitting her. I started with a shirt pattern, but made the front narrower and the back wider.  In hindsight, using a plain green t-shirt would have been easier. For the collar, I stitched a piece of creamy white fabric into a circle and added elastic near the top.

For the hat, I glued black felt into a cone shape. The wide end needed to be about the width of the dog’s head. Next I cut a circle that was about 2″ wider than the base of the cone. I glued it to the cone and cut out the center portion. Thin black elastic kept the hat in place. I also glued short bits of raffia to the brim.

Just before taking the photo, I tucked some raffia into the sleeves.

The Cowardly Lion costume

What took the longest to make was Chip‘s lion mane. I took a measurement from about the middle of his forehead to the top of his shoulder blades. Then I cut a piece of stretchy fabric to that length and sewed it into a tube. One end was a snug fit around his head while the other end fit around his shoulders. During the final test fit, I marked around the top of each ear. After removing the tube, I cut holes for his ears.

For the mane, I wrapped yarn around three fingers and tied one end tightly before cutting the bundle loose. I used a whole skein of yarn making these bundles. Then starting at the narrow end of the tube, I sewed each bundle to the stretchy fabric. To finish, I tied the ribbon in a bow and stitched it in place between the ear openings.

I’m not sure if they were starting to enjoy Halloween dress up or if they were just resigned to my shenanigans.

Old west characters

In early October the next year I found myself wandering the Halloween aisle in the local store. I was trying to come up with another trio of costumes. Looking at this and that, I found a red bustier (corset) that was sized for a child. There were also cowboy hats and six guns nearby. Hmmm.

Arwen’s costume was pretty easy. Tie some red ribbon in a bow and attach to the wig. Check. Lace her up in the bustier. Check. Add a table prop to help her sit up and show off her costume. Check!

The black-wearing outlaw took a little more work. I added a thin piece of elastic to hold his hat in place. Then cut the black fabric, folded it into a triangle and tied it around his neck. Added his belt and holsters and he was ready.

The sheriff’s outfit took a little more work, but not too much. I added a thin piece of elastic to hold his hat in place. Then I cut and sewed the tan fabric into a tunic. The belt with holster held the tunic closed. Finishing touches were the red bandana and the sheriff’s badge.

Tory and Chip were perfect in their roles as the outlaw and the sleepy sheriff. Arwen was not pleased though. I don’t think she liked having to wear a girly outfit with a wig AND sit up. She would have made a good outlaw, but for this year she was the dance hall gal.

Labs dress up in western costumes - an outlaw, a sheriff and a dance hall gal

Supplies:

  • red bustier
  • black wig
  • 8″ piece of red ribbon
  • a black cowboy hat
  • a brown cowboy hat
  • two sets of six-guns with belts and holsters
  • a sheriff’s badge
  • a red bandana
  • fabric pieces in black and tan
Harry, Ron and Hermoine as portrayed by three Labrador Retrievers

Supplies:

  • 3 white shirts
  • 3 men’s ties
  • red and yellow fabric paint
  • black witch’s hat
  • 2 pairs of reading glasses
  • white chalk
  • white paint
  • black fabric

You’re a wizard Harry

The next year I decided to show them that dressing up isn’t all that bad. So I joined them.

Another trio – Harry, Hermione and Ron – plus one – Professor McGonagall.

Starting with the ties, I turned them into Gryffindor ties with SEVERAL coats of the red and yellow paint. Notice how one turned out a bit wrinkly? That was Ron’s tie. His shirt didn’t tuck in well either. I also sewed the black fabric into robes for all four of us.

Got us all dressed with white shirts, plus the ties and robes.

Next was sweet talking Tory into wearing glasses and Arwen into wearing the wig again. The glasses didn’t show up well on a black dog, so I took the lenses out and painted the glasses white. Much better!

I added a lightning bolt on Tory’s forehead with white chalk and told them to say ‘cheese’! And, yes, they smiled! They also got to go to the Halloween party and schmooze everyone for tasty treats.

Tip: Start your shopping at local thrift stores. I bought all the shirts and ties for less than $10. The stores will usually also have lots of ready-made costumes for sale.

I’d just as soon kiss a wookiee

The next Halloween became an homage to the Star Wars movies, but which three characters should it be? Darth Vader, of course. And when you have bad, you need good.

Should it be Luke, Leia or Yoda? Costume-wise, Luke was boring and I didn’t want to try hanging cinnamon rolls on my dog’s head, so Yoda was it. And, of course, you need the iconic R2D2.

Next was figuring out which parts of the characters were needed for people to recognize the costumes: Yoda’s ears and light saber, Darth’s light saber, cape, chest plate and helmet (well, most of it because the mask wouldn’t fit) and R2D2’s shape and coloring.

Do you have any idea how long it takes to paint a bowl and fabric to look like R2D2? And that was just the start.

Darth’s helmet and Yoda’s ears both took several fittings, plenty of sewing and LOTS of interfacing to make them stiff enough to look right.

Then more sewing to make Yoda’s robe plus painting Darth’s chest plate and two light sabres.

Luckily last year’s Gryffindor robe worked great for Darth too.

It was worth it though because this was one of the most popular sets of costumes. They were dubbed R2-Dog2, Dog Vader and Yo Dawg.

Labradors in costume as R2D2, Darth Vader and Yoda

Supplies:

  • a white, plastic bowl
  • white fabric
  • acrylic paint in white,blue, green, red, silver and black
  • a cardboard box about the size of a ream of copy paper
  • fabric pieces in black, green and light tan
  • fusible interfacing
  • two cardboard cores from Christmas wrapping paper
Chevy Chase, Martin Short and Steve Martin as portrayed by Labrador Retrievers

Supplies:

  • silver acrylic paint
  • black fabric (I repurposed the Gryffindor robes)
  • white shirts (I repurposed the shirts too)
  • 3 black hats with broad brims
  • red satin fabric

All of us has an El Guapo to face

If you can’t tell, I choose characters that are usually a bit over the top to make interesting costumes. So it should be no surprise that Chevy Chase, Martin Short and Steve Martin made an appearance on the next Halloween as the Three Amigos!

With a lot of patience and some silver paint, the Gryffindor robes became sparkly jackets. The white shirts were reused. I also painted the hats. Then a bit of sewing turned the red fabric into ties and cumberbunds.

It’s amazing how detailed the real costumes were and I tried hard to replicate the look.

I think Arwen finally liked her costume.

Down the rabbit hole

Liking her costume was short-lived. The next year I put Arwen in a pink Cheshire cat costume and had her lay down on a bench. If looks could kill…

For the hat, I glued green construction paper into a tube shape with the top wider than the bottom. The bottom needed to be about the width of the dog’s head. I cut two circles – one for the brim and one for the top. The brim should be about 2-3 inches wider than the bottom of the tube. I cut the top piece a little big and cut off the excess after it was glued to the tube.

To finish the hat, I added some green ribbon around the base of the hat. I made a card with “10/6” written on it and tucked the card in the band. Thin black elastic under his chin kept the hat in place.

Adding a wig, jacket and green tie completed the Mad Hatter’s costume.

Making a White Rabbit costume required some creativity. I nixed the idea of painting my black Lab white and instead used features to hint at his identity. I made rabbit ears out of white and black construction paper with light gauge wire glued inside. The wire made the ears bendable and also attached the ears to a plastic headband. Next I repurposed a tie from the Three Amigos costume and added a matching jacket. The white rabbit’s large pocket watch was made by painting a whipped topping container lid.

There was a fourth player too, but it wasn’t me this year. In the story, there is a Dormouse who pops out of a teapot. I tried James the rat as a stand-in, but he never got his cue right.

Down the rabbit hole! Halloween costumes for dogs

Supplies:

  • Cheshire cat costume from a yard sale
  • 2 jackets repurposed from my closet
  • red tie remade from the Three Amigos costumes
  • white, black, and green construction paper for the hat and ears
  • acrylic paint in white, black, gold
  • black Sharpie-type pen
  • about 12 inches of 1 inch wide green ribbon for hat band
  • thin piece of elastic for the hat
  • a small piece of green fabric for the tie
  • wig
  • about 36 inches of light-gauge wire for rabbit ears
  • plastic headband for the ears
  • plastic lid from a whipped topping container
  • teapot
  • hot glue and glue gun
Labs can wear traditional costumes for kids

Kids costumes for dogs

By Halloween 2015 we were winding down. Chip was nearly 17 and slept a lot. Tory had been diagnosed with cancer. And I was heart sick. I felt I needed to do one more Halloween photo, but it would have to be simple.

Off to the store again where I found some ready-made costumes – a devil, a witch and a ninja turtle.

I lost Tory just a few days later and Chip in December.

Easy to make deer costume

Although 13 years old, Arwen was still willing so back to the store I went. For her first solo, she was a deer. A trophy deer.

I cut a big piece of cardboard into a shield shape with a hole in the middle just big enough for her head. Then I added some ‘wood grain’ with a Sharpie.

Next I cut the felt into some oval shapes with the brown felt pieces slightly larger. For a Labrador these pieces were about 8 inches long and 3-4 inches wide. I layered the tan inside the brown felt then rolled and glued one end to make an ear. I repeated the process to make the other ear.

Using some wire, I attached the ears and some twigs to the headband. To introduce her to the cardboard, I let her sniff it and then put it on her head. Note: the cardboard only went over her face. I made the hole small enough so the cardboard would not slip over her ears and down her neck.

With a little persuasion, Arwen sat with this contraption on her head while I took pictures.

Isn’t she cute?

 

Labrador in costume as a trophy deer head

Supplies:

  • large piece of sturdy cardboard
  • Sharpie pen
  •  brown and tan felt
  • girl’s plastic headband
  • light gauge wire
Labs can wear traditional costumes for kids

Supplies:

  • small party hats
  • thin black elastic
  • a friend willing to help

Simple costume for St Paddy’s day

After eleven years of Halloween costumes, it was a time of change. More dogs went to the Bridge, but eventually young dogs “volunteered” to carry on the tradition.

In the spring of 2018 I had a litter of puppies who were ready for their 7-week evaluations. A good friend came over, we evaluated puppies, took lots of pictures and decided to give costuming another try.

I already had a bag of small, sparkly green party favor hats. After poking small holes on each side of the hats, I threaded thin black elastic to help hold them on the puppies’ heads. Luckily the puppies had run off some energy, but weren’t quite ready for a nap. Perfect!

We put two puppies on a table as my friend stood to the side to hold them still. Checking the pictures afterward, we saw the background was just too busy. Bless her heart! She let me throw a white blanket over her head while she stood behind the puppies, keeping one hand on each puppy’s hip.

It took a little Photoshopping to blur the background and add a St. Patrick’s Day wish, but the final photo was worth the effort!

Which witch is which?

In 2019 I was finally ready to try Halloween costumes again. Tisket and Wynk were both obedience trained, so although skeptical, they were willing to sit as I fussed.

For the hats, I rolled some black construction paper into cones with glue to hold it. Then I cut a couple donut shapes for the brims and glued those to the base of the cones. After adding some black elastic to keep the hats in place, they were done. But they were kinda boring. Hmmm. Hot glue gun to the rescue! I added several stripes of glue to the cones and brim to give the hats a little sparkle.

The broomsticks were fairly easy, although a bit messy. I wound raffia into two bundles about 10 inches long and wrapped rubber bands near one end. After sticking the dowels into that end, I cut apart the other end and skrunched until it looked right. To hide the rubber bands, I wrapped some raffia over them and tacked it in place with hot glue.

To solve the problem of no hands to hold the broomsticks, I used more black elastic. I cut two pieces about 8 inches long for each dog. Then tied the ends in a knot that was tight enough to hold the broomstick, but not too tight. I slid them on each dog’s leg and slid the broomstick along the leg and under the elastic.

I hoped to take the photos in front of some small trees that had already lost their leaves, but it was too cold and windy. Back inside, I taped a gray sheet on the wall as a background and started taking pictures. But after checking, I decided the background just wasn’t right.

Photoshop to the rescue. I removed the background and made it transparent. Checking Pixabay I found a colorful sunset that looked great, added it with a bit of text and my signature. Done!

What do you think of my pretty witches?

Supplies:

  • black construction paper
  • thin black elastic
  • hot glue gun and glue
  • 2-1/2 inch dowels
  • raffia ribbon
Labs can wear traditional costumes for kids

Supplies:

  • two stretchy pullover shirts
  • yellow and orange tissue paper
  • a bag of big pipe cleaners
  • a bag of blow up balloons
  • lots of duct tape
  • several empty soda bottles
  • gray spray paint
  • about 6 inches of Velcro
  • two really cute tutus in sparkly red and purple

Fun space cadets costumes

I had an idea I wanted to try for Halloween, but it’s a good thing I started early.

First task was testing the concept. I blew up a round balloon and covered it with criss-crossing duct tape, leaving a large hole on one side. It took a LOT of tape. When I thought it had enough tape to hold it’s shape, I popped the balloon. Nope, it needed more tape.

But before adding more tape, I decided to test fit it. Splash was willing, but thought I was certifiable. I made a few modifications and continued adding tape. I also added pipe cleaner antennas. Then duplicated the process for Sketch’s helmet.

Next were the power packs. I had a few plastic soda bottles and painted them silver. While I was at it, I also painted both stretchy shirts. When the bottles were dry, I taped them together. I added Velcro to the bottles and backs of the shirts. Then I added some tissue paper to the ends of the bottles to simulate flames.

Now the test. Would they wear all this stuff AND sit still? Obedience training sure helps, but it was hilarious watching them step on the tutus.

Introducing Space Cadets Sketch and Splash from the Department of Intergalactic Security and Information (DIS-Info.com) ready for service.

By the way, their great grandmama Arwen would be proud!

Christmas party costumes

For Christmas 2020, Sketch, Splash and Wynk got their party on!

Starting with the easy outfit, I added a piece of black elastic to the Santa hat to hold it on. After test fitting, I also added a stitch to hold the pompom in the right place.

Next up was Sketch’s Christmas tree. I cut two pieces of the green felt into a Christmas tree shape. Using an old clothes hanger, I cut and shaped it into an upside down V shape. With the hanger ends sticking out of the bottom about an inch, I hot glued the hanger to the felt. I bent the ends and left them long for support at the back of the tree. Then I glued the front and back together and to the hanger. I added some small decorations. It did take a bit of tweaking to keep the tree from falling over.

Splash’s antlers were made similarly to the tree. I made the red nose from a circle of red felt stuffed with cotton balls. It weighed nothing, but Splash thought she should hold it in her mouth instead of balancing it on her nose. Tiny black elastic to the rescue.

Supplies:

  • Santa hat
  • green, tan and red felt
  • 2 plastic headbands
  • tiny Christmas decorations
  • glue gun and glue sticks
  • thin black elastic
  • a couple of old wire hangers

Supplies:

  • 3 red, white and blue bandanas
  • 3 decorative headbands
  • fireworks sticker

Super simple costumes for July 4th

Costumes for Independence Day celebrations were a snap! Bandanas, decorated headbands and a small fireworks sticker for the wall was all it took.

Wynk, Sketch and Splash really got in the spirit this time!

Inexpensive skeleton for Halloween

This Halloween was supposed to be two canine skeletons. Alas, there was only time enough for one.

I tried white chalk, but it didn’t cover well enough on a black dog. Instead I used nearly a bottle of white acrylic paint. It took quite awhile to paint and Splash needed several breaks. She was carefully supervised so she didn’t spread the paint around the house.

Even a first year veterinary student would probably laugh at the bone placement, but I think she turned out cute. Especially when Splash thought she saw a “ghost” popping out from behind the couch.

Splash got to model her costume for another day, then needed a bath to look like herself again.

Tip: Try colored chalk or paint if your dog isn’t black.

Supplies:

  • white chalk or acrylic (washable) paint
  • dog skeleton image for reference

Supplies:

  • blue acrylic paint
  • skein of brown yarn
  • 2 small strings of craft beads
  • red bandana
  • pieces of fabric on sale
  • toy sword

Drink up me hearties, yo ho!

Halloween 2022 brought a new player to the lineup. This is 5-month old Boo, a chocolate Lab. I think he was born for the limelight!

To prepare, I looked through many images to help me decide what to get to capture the essence of Cap’n Jack Sparrow.

After loading up on supplies, the first task was cutting and gluing the fabric into a vest shape. It needed a color boost and a bit of blue craft paint worked just fine.

Next was cutting yarn into 24 inch pieces, folding them in half and gluing together into clumps. I also braided a couple pieces of yarn.

In the movies, Cap’n Jack often wears a dirty red bandana around his head. However the difference in anatomy between people and dogs presented a bit of a problem. To solve it, I first tied the bandana like it was on a person’s head. Next I glued all the yarn clumps, plus the braid and a string of beads to the inside of the bandana. I also added a string of beads to the top of the bandana.

It wound up looking like a fez, but at least the whole shebang didn’t need elastic to stay put. I should mention it got mouthed a bit, but I think that added to the authenticity.

Next we had some rehearsals.

Wear the hat and wig while sitting? Check.
Wear the blue vest and a white shirt while sitting? Check.
Wear all of it plus the sword while sitting? Check.
Added a smudge of mascara under his eyes and on his lip. AND WE ARE READY!

Boo did a great job as the dashing, yet goofy, Cap’n Jack.

My what big teeth you have!

Boo is back; this time with momma Wynk.

I started her costume by cutting a hole big enough for her head in the closed end of the pillow case. Then I folded the corners over and tacked them down to make the shoulders look more realistic. (Note: I realized later this wasn’t necessary as they were covered by the cape.)

Next I pulled the pillow case over her head and marked where I needed holes for her front legs. I started small when cutting the holes and gradually made them bigger. A tape measure might have helped, but this way seemed easier for me.

Then I cut two rectangles out of the black fabric – about 9 inches wide and 15 inches long. They needed to be long enough to cover from her shoulders to her waist. And wide enough to cover from the edge of her chest and around her side. I decided not to take it all the way around her back as that would be covered by the cape.

I also cut four pieces of black fabric about 1/2 inch by 12 inches to criss cross her chest. Black ribbon would also work.

Placing the black rectangles on the front of the pillow case, I left about 7 inches open in the middle. I attached the criss crosses in the middle and the black rectangles on the sides, using the glue gun.

Turning it inside out, I cut the black fabric where it overlapped the leg holes. Time to test fit!

Next up was making the red skirt. I cut the red fabric at 22 inches long and glued the selvages together. Then I turned over about an inch at the top and glued the edge to make a tube. After measuring around her waist, I cut some elastic about 2 inches shorter. I slid the elastic through the tube, pulled it snug and tied it in a knot.

For the cape, I cut the fabric about 40 inches long. After folding it in half, selvage to selvage, I laid it out on the table. I drew a shallow curve along the top edge using some chalk. Next I cut and glued together the cut edges.

For the ribbon, I cut the leftover fabric about 1.5 inches wide and selvage to selvage. I wrapped this around Wynk’s neck and tied a bow to hold the cape on.

Boo’s costume was much easier. First a quick trip to a thrift store for an old-fashioned nightgown and reading glasses. Then I cut about 8 inches off the bottom of the nightgown and slip-stitched the cut edge. I carefully pulled the thread to make a floppy night cap.

As dusk was descending, I took Wynk and Boo out to the edge of the woods. I dressed Wynk first and fluffed up the cape and skirt. Boo’s costume was simple and quick. Snapped a few photos and done!

What costume(s) should we try next year? Use the contact form to let me know your ideas.

Note: Because these costumes probably wouldn’t be used again, I cut corners. I glued seams instead of stitching and left raw edges instead of hemming.

Supplies:

  • old, white pillowcase
  • black fabric remnant
  • 2 yards red fabric
  • 24 inches white lace, approximately 2 inches wide
  • thread
  • thrift store nightgown
  • eye glasses
  • glue gun and glue

This post was originally published on October 31, 2019. Edited and updated with new content on April 9, 2024.

You’re probably well aware of the various health issues and hazards that can pose a risk to your dog. You might also have heard about the dangers of grass awns, but do you know why they’re dangerous?

Did you know that those idyllic fields of waving grain, as beautifully depicted in “America the Beautiful,” can pose a severe risk to your dog’s well-being? Yes, those innocent-looking plants hold the potential for grave health concerns.

Allow me to share a personal experience: Once, during our vacation, one of our dogs had a foxtail stuck in the corner of his eye. With no local vet clinics open, my resourceful mother got out her tweezers and had my brother hold our dog still. It took several minutes, but she grasped the foxtail deeply enough and pulled it out. Our little terrier was fine, if a bit put out over being so rudely man handled.

In this post we’ll learn about the dangers of grass awns and how you can safeguard your dog. Join us to learn about this hidden peril.

UNDERSTANDING GRASS AWNS

What are they?

Grass awns are the seed pods of tall grasses that grow throughout North America. Sounds harmless doesn’t it?

Don’t be fooled though. They can create serious health issues in dogs and other animals.

The problem is their bristle-like structure helps them stick to anything – such as your shoelaces or your dog’s fur. They can also get into your dog’s nose, eyes or other parts of his body. And backward-pointing bristles make them hard to pull out. Worse yet, when your dog moves those awns can inch forward because of the bristles. They can even penetrate the skin and migrate around inside your dog’s body causing inflammation and infection.

Grasses that produce awns include:

  • foxtails
  • cheatgrass
  • june grass
  • timothy hay
  • downy brome
  • needle grass
  • wild barley
  • spear grass
  • Canadian wild rye
  • foxtail barley
  • winter bentgrass / ticklegrass

Where and when are grass awns found?

Grasses, whether cultivated or wild, can have dangerous awns if they are unmowed and allowed to go to seed. Anywhere grass grows – in meadows, along trails or roads, and even in your yard – they pose a risk.

The grass itself is not dangerous. It’s the seed pod – or awn – that can cause health issues.

When grasses produce their awns can vary by location and weather. Generally they go to seed during dry and warm seasons. That might be for a short time at mid-summer for northern locations. Or it could be year-round in the warm south-western areas.

DANGERS OF GRASS AWNS

Grass awns, with their bristles, can become entangled in your dog’s coat when he runs through tall grass. Sometimes they’re tangled so completely that they can’t migrate. Although they can be hard to brush out, doing so can spare your dog pain and potential infection.

More likely the awns will move deeper into your dog’s coat due to their arrowhead shape and backward-pointing bristles. If they’re not removed they can pierce the skin and potentially migrate throughout his body.

If your dog hunts during the fall be sure to brush him thoroughly when you get home. Or run your fingers through his coat, feeling for awns or bumps which could be ticks.

Common places awns can lodge

The most common places these awns cause problems are between the toes, or in the eyes, ears, or nostrils. They’ve also pierced the gums or skin and have worked their way in through external genital organs.

Between Toes:

Grass awns can work their way between your dog’s toes, leading to irritation and possible infection. This is especially true for dogs with long or thick fur.

Eyes:

Grass awns can get trapped in a tear duct or behind the eyelid. This can cause redness, swelling, discharge, or even scratches on the cornea.

Ears:

Because of the ear canal structure, grass awns can migrate deep within causing irritation, inflammation, and infections.

Nose:

Dogs experience the world through their noses, but that puts them in danger of inhaling grass awns. Sneezing and rubbing their nose or face is a warning sign. Sometimes these awns migrate into the respiratory system causing serious health problems.

Under the Skin:

Another one of the dangers of grass awns it that they can penetrate the skin and travel through the body’s soft tissues.

Consequences of grass awn migration

After a day’s hunt or even just a romp in a field, grass awns can cause irritation and discomfort. If they’re not removed they can pierce the skin, introducing bacteria that can lead to an infection or abscess. An awn can migrate deeper into tissues and organs causing damage and potentially serious complications.

Sometimes the entrance wound heals and isn’t noticed. However, weeks or even months later your dog could develop odd symptoms. Your veterinarian might run tests without being able to pinpoint the cause of the symptoms all because of a migrating awn. Depending on its migration route it could damage your dog’s heart, lungs or even brain.

TREATMENT

When caught early, brushing or using tweezers works fine. However, if the awn is in a sensitive place or has punctured the skin, it’s time to visit your veterinarian. In that case, your dog will probably need to be sedated and the area shaved to remove the awn.

If the awn migrated deep into your dog’s body, your vet may use ultrasound to locate it and surgery to remove it. Sometimes the awn isn’t seen, but rather the path it took.

Another sign to watch for is when your dog has an infection and does well initially on an antibiotic, but then the infection flares up again. This can happen if an awn isn’t removed. Tell your vet if your dog has been in tall grass.

PREVENTION

Not all grasses produce awns, but it’s better to take precautions just in case.

Suggestions to minimize the dangers of grass awns include:

  • whenever possible, avoid fields with grass that have gone to seed during the summer and fall
  •  brush your dog immediately after running in an area that may contain grass awns
  •  use your fingers to feel through your dog’s coat including the chest, armpits, belly, and groin areas
  •  visually inspect eyes, ears, gums, and between the toes
  •  consider trimming your dog’s fur in places where awns are likely to collect
  •  consider outfitting your dog with boots and or goggles

Symptoms of an embedded grass awn include:

  •  non-healing wound
  •  areas of redness and swelling
  •  limping
  •  head shaking
  •  sneezing
  •  scratching ears or face
  •  discharge from eyes or nose

SUMMARY

Grass awns, often known as foxtails or grass seeds, can cause lots of problems for your dog. Most of the problems happen in late summer and early fall just in time for hunting season.

You can avoid areas with tall grass, particularly when it’s gone to seed. If you have a dog with long hair, especially on their feet, you can keep them trimmed. You can check your dog every time they’ve been in tall grass. Pay particular attention to their feet, nose, eyes, ears, armpits and groin.

Although prevention takes more effort, checking your dog can minimize the dangers of grass awns. If you find or even suspect a grass awn foreign body, contact your veterinarian as soon as possible. The quicker it is removed, the better the chance of a successful outcome.

After a rewarding hunting season, you might find yourself looking for more challenges and opportunities to bond with your dog. That’s where hunt tests come into play.

Some hunters may feel their dogs are skilled enough without needing titles and ribbons, but hunt tests offer much more.

It’s a great way to keep your dog active and in sync during the off-season. Plus, it’s an opportunity to showcase your dog’s abilities and to connect with others who share the same passion. Many lifelong friendships are forged while training and competing.

With your curiosity piqued, I’ll bet you’re wondering, “What can I expect at a hunt test?” Well, grab your favorite beverage and settle in to learn about the fascinating world of retriever hunt tests.

 

History

Retriever breeds have competed in field trials in the US since the 1930s. In the beginning, the tasks required of the dogs were not much different than we see in hunt tests today. But as the dogs got better, the tasks got harder. And as the tasks got harder they became less like hunting.

Eventually, hunters wanted a way to test their dogs’ actual hunting abilities. A few different programs were tried but with little success.

Then in 1979, Omar Driskill started a “gun dog club” in Louisiana that became very popular. A few years later Bill Tarrant wrote an article saying that field trials were producing dogs that were different than what the average hunter wanted. And Richard Wolters (author of “Water Dog”) wrote an article asking if there was a need for the hunting retriever movement.

Hunting enthusiasts got together in New York to discuss forming an organization for hunting retrievers. Present were trainers, writers, and representatives from AKC and UKC.

First Hunt Tests

Based on that meeting, the first hunt test was held in Arcadia, LA in 1983 under rules developed by the North American Hunting Retriever Association (“NAHRA”).

A year or so later HRC was formed and shortly after that AKC held its first retriever hunt test. Because of their common start, the rules and the stakes offered are very similar. The tests are not competitive so the dogs pass or fail on their own merits. There are three basic levels with titles in each organization.

In 1985, the first year that AKC licensed tests, there were 13 events with 681 entries. By 2005, there were 341 events with nearly 35,000 entries.

It wasn’t long before owners who had titled their dogs in Master or Finished, wanted something more to achieve. This led to the development of the Master National Hunting Test (affiliated with AKC) and HRC’s International Grand Hunt.

Something the original organizers probably didn’t consider is as training methods improved the tests would gradually became more difficult. A Junior stake 20 years ago was very different from tests today despite the rules changing very little. This seems to be the case in both organizations, but it’s a bit more apparent in AKC tests.

 

Getting ready

AKC vs HRC hunt tests

The AKC and the HRC offer similar hunt tests. Each offers three levels for weekend hunt tests, plus a more difficult annual (twice annually for HRC) test. HRC also offers an Upland test.

AKC requires handlers to wear “dark or customary hunting attire”. HRC requires the handler to wear ALL camo – shirt and pants, shorts, or a skirt. Hats and waders, if worn, also need to be camo.

Titles earned in AKC hunt tests are listed after the dog’s name, while HRC titles are listed before the name.

The levels are:

Stake and Title
AKC HRC
Junior / JH Started / SHR
Senior / SH Seasoned / HR
Master / MH Finished / HRCH
Upland / UH
Master National / MNH International Grand Hunt / GRHRC

The rules are similar, but not exactly the same. Be sure to check before entering and running your dog. It is a good idea to read the rule book, making notes and highlighting important information so you can find it easily when you need a refresher.

AKC Rule Book

HRC Rule Book

Although you don’t have to be a member of a club to run a hunt test, having a group to train with can be very helpful. Also if you run HRC there are additional fees if you are not a member of the national club or if your dog is not UKC registered.

Find a local AKC club (select ‘Hunting Test’ and your state)

Find a local HRC club (click on ‘State’ to group clubs by state)

Join HRC (national club) It’s not expensive and you get an informational magazine six times per year.

You can start the UKC registration process here. If your dog is AKC registered, have that information handy to fill out the UKC form.

Allowed breeds:

You’d think retriever hunt tests would be for retrievers, but both organizations opened the tests up to many hunting breeds. In a nutshell, they allow retrievers, plus Standard Poodles and a variety of spaniel and pointer breeds.

Spayed/neutered dogs and dogs that would be disqualified in the show ring are also welcome.

AKC restricts the hunt tests to dogs over six months, individually registered (not just litter registration), and of eligible breeds. There are special rules for entering imported dogs that are not yet registered with AKC.

HRC limits the tests to hunting breeds on their list which does not include dilutes (the “Silver Labs”). Note: if a dilute dog is entered in a hunt test the hunt test committee should be notified.

Click to watch a video of Omar Driskill talking about the start of hunt tests.

 

Junior vs Started hunt tests

The Junior and Started tests are very similar. They include two series – a land series and a water series with two single retrieves on land and two single retrieves on water.

Both allow you to hold your dog at the line. In Junior, you can loop a slipcord through the collar which must be a flat buckle collar. Or you can hold the dog by the collar. In Started, you can hold the dog by a collar, leash, or line around its neck. (As a judge, I always recommend holding your dog. If you don’t and your dog breaks, he will likely fail.)

A change in AKC rules as of August 1, 2023 allows handlers to speak quietly to their dog and be allowed to touch their dog for reassurance or positioning. This is only allowed at the Junior level.

You don’t handle a gun in AKC and rarely handle one in HRC although in HRC you can opt to shoulder and shoot a popper. However in that case you cannot hold your dog and you are also judged on gun safety.

There are some differences

You’ll need a whistle in either test and a duck call in HRC. Although the AKC premium usually says to bring a duck call, many judges don’t require it. You should, however, have your own duck call, know how to blow it, and have your dog used to it. Just in case.

The maximum distances are different. In AKC, the test distance on land and water “should not normally exceed 100 yards.” But in HRC, the “maximum land test distance will not exceed seventy-five (75) yards, but may be less.” The wording is the same for water, but the maximum distance is 60 yards. Some judges like to push the distance out further, particularly in AKC where the wording is not as definite.

You’ll often stand beside your dog in AKC vs HRC where you’ll generally sit on a bucket beside your dog. Be prepared to run your dog from either position.

Also, HRC limits the number of entries to 50 per flight. Most tests don’t fill, but if you want to make sure you can enter check for when entries open and go online right after that time. Many clubs allow “walk ups” – entering the morning of the test, but only until the limit is reached. AKC doesn’t limit entries.

Birds

Ducks are often used, but occasionally you’ll see a mixed bag of ducks on water and upland birds on land.

In AKC, you’ll have at least one shot flyer (unless using live ammunition is prohibited by law or the land owner). That means a live bird will be thrown in the air and shot. Depending on the skill of the gunners, your dog may have to retrieve a dead bird, a lightly-hit runner, or a hard-hit bird that would not be suitable for the table. In HRC the birds are usually humanely killed with gas on the morning of the hunt test. If your dog has never run an HRC test, you may want to ask if you can run a bit later. New dogs can be unsure of a bird that smells of gas, but the scent wears off quickly.

After the bird lands you must wait for the judge to release you in an AKC test. In HRC, you’re allowed to send your dog as soon as the bird hits the ground or water. However, you should wait a couple of seconds so there’s no question the bird landed before you sent your dog.

Marks

Sometimes a dog will start toward a mark and stop within about 15 feet. In AKC, the dog can be recast because he may be confused about if he was actually sent to retrieve it. This is different from a dog that goes to the area of the fall, fails to find the bird, and comes back to the handler. But in HRC you can cast your dog a maximum of two times from the line per bird. There isn’t a limit on how far the dog can go or how long he hunts or is called back and cast a second time.

Your dog must deliver all birds to hand in AKC. If he drops it, perhaps to shake off water, you can tell him again to fetch it. You may have to tell him several times, but the more commands, the lower his score. On the other hand, if he’s unwilling to release the bird he’ll be scored low in Trainability, even to the point of failing. In HRC, your dog must deliver to your immediate area, but not necessarily to your hand. If the judges don’t explain their measurement for “your immediate area” you should ask as it’s not clearly defined. Generally, judges will allow you to take a long step to pick up the bird.

Second series

In AKC, the judges will confer after completing the first series. A dog that both judges have failed is not called back to run the second series. The judges will list the dogs (by number) that are passing and the marshal will advise handlers of the “callbacks.” In HRC, you can continue to run your dog even if you failed the first series with some exceptions. Exceptions include a gun safety violation, dog fighting, or a handler ejected for bad behavior.

HRC awards five points per pass with 20 points required for the Started (“SHR”) title. In essence, both AKC and HRC require four passes in Junior or Started for a title in that organization. Passes from a higher level do not count toward the Junior or Started titles.

Watch an AKC Junior Test or an HRC Started Hunt Test.

 

Senior vs Seasoned hunt tests

Although the basics are similar, there are a lot of differences between Senior and Seasoned tests.

What is similar

Both include double land and water marks, a land blind and a water blind, but they’re run differently.

Senior has two series: land double and blind, water double and blind, plus at least one diversion shot, a walk-up to start one of the tests, and an honor. Dogs that fail the first series are not called back to run the second series.

Seasoned has five tests: a walk-up, a double land mark, a land blind, a double water mark, and a water blind. There is also a diversion bird.

Pretty similar except Senior has a walk-up to start a double while Seasoned does the walk-up separately.

Dogs run without a collar in both organizations, but when the collar or slip lead is removed is different.

In Senior it’s removed before going to the line from the final holding blind. The dog is put back on a lead when the series is finished and the dog and handler are behind the judges. You may be asked to put your dog on a lead to honor if your dog has failed the test.

For Seasoned, the dog goes to the line on a lead and the lead is removed before starting the test. If the dog runs the marks and blind from a different line, the dog is put back on a lead when moving to the next line. The dog is also put on a lead when the series is finished.

Handlers in both organizations must shoulder the shotgun. Senior tests have a non-operational gun and there is no shooting from the line. Seasoned tests require handlers to shoulder, aim and shoot a popper at each bird.

Blinds must be outside of the marks and delivering the bird to hand is required in both stakes.

What is different

In Senior, the test distance on land and water “should not normally exceed 100 yards.” While in Seasoned, the “maximum land test distance will not exceed one hundred (100) yards but may be shorter.” The wording is the same for water, but the maximum distance is 75 yards. The blinds “will not exceed sixty (60) yards…”

Diversion shot(s) must be used and diversion bird(s) may be used in Senior. Seasoned requires a diversion bird that “can be thrown after the walk-up, blind, or last retrieve of a double mark.” Switching to the diversion bird is a mark-down, but not a failure in Seasoned. Switching or returning to an old fall in Senior is a failure.

Seasoned can be cast from the line two times per bird, but in Senior the dog can be sent more than once only in cases of confusion. There is no second chance if the dog doesn’t go when sent for a blind retrieve.

Popping isn’t penalized in Seasoned. It is a mark-down in Senior, earning a bigger penalty the more the dog pops.

Senior dogs must honor a working dog at least once.

Also, HRC limits the number of entries to 40 per flight. If you want to make sure you can enter check for when entries open and enter online as soon as possible after that. I’ve never seen an AKC club limit Senior entries. However if there are too many entries to finish the test in one day, you may have to come back. If the test starts on Sunday, that means coming back on Monday.

Titling

If a dog has a Junior title, four passes are required for the Senior title. Without a Junior title, five passes are required.

The Seasoned (“HR”) title requires forty (40) points for a title and can include points from Started (5 points), Seasoned (10 points), or Finished (15 points). However, only 10 points from Started can be counted toward the Seasoned title. Basically, if you have a couple of Started passes you need three Seasoned passes. Otherwise, four Seasoned passes are needed for the HR title. If your dog has a lot of training before running in tests, you can run Finished with each pass counting as 15 points. So three passes (45 points) for an HR title and those points count toward the 100 points needed for a Finished title.

Watch an AKC Senior Test or an HRC Seasoned Hunt Test.

 

Master vs Finished hunt tests

In these tests, almost anything goes. There will be multiple marks, sometimes multiple blinds, diversion shots and/or birds, an honor and/or a walk-up. Dogs might run from a boat or from beside a layout blind. There may be a mixed bag of birds (for example, retrieving ducks and pheasants in the same series). Handlers of the working AND honor dogs may have to shoot at birds. There might be a “poison bird” (a bird the dog may not retrieve until he has done another task).

Luckily there are limits to what the judges can require.

What is similar

Dogs are taken off lead before leaving the holding blind. They are judged until the series is finished and the dog and handler are behind the judges. An exception is made when they’ve failed the test and have to honor on lead.

Although Junior or Senior entries aren’t usually limited, Master can be – and often is – limited. Clubs can choose to limit the number to 66, 100, 132, or 200 entries or can have unlimited entries.

HRC limits the number of Finished entries to 30 dogs per flight. Many clubs schedule a second or third set of judges to run more flights

Master test requirements:

  • has three series – a land series with multiple marks, a water series with multiple marks and a land and water series with multiple marks
  • at least two of the multiple-marking situations must have three falls before the dog is sent to retrieve
  • a land blind and a water blind with at least one double blind
  • dogs must honor at least once
  • there must be a walk-up, diversion bird and/or shots at least once
  • will be scheduled to run over a minimum of two consecutive days

Finished test requirements:

  • has four tests – a land triple, a water triple, a land blind, and a water blind – may be required to retrieve in an established sequence
  • at least one of the triples must include an honor
  • the blinds may or may not be included with one of the triple retrieves
  • there must be a diversion as the dog returns from any retrieve
  • the test is completed in one day

Test distances are similar

Master on land and water, shall not normally exceed 150 yards.

Finished land distance will not exceed 150 yards, but may be shorter. Water distance will not exceed 125 yards, but may be shorter. Blind retrieve distance will not exceed 100 yards.

Switching is similar

In Master it shall be scored low, to the point of failing.

In Finished switching to a diversion bird is a fail.

A controlled break is similar

Master dog fails.

Finished dog may be failed for a controlled break or excessive, consistent creeping.

The use of the shotgun is similar

A Master handler “shall always carry and shoulder an empty shotgun except when honoring the working dog or when running a blind.”

A Finished handler “must shoulder the shotgun, aim, track, and shoot at the top of the arc of the thrown bird.”

Titling

If a dog already has a Senior title, five passes are required for a Master title. Without a Senior title, six passes are required.

A Finished title (“HRCH”) requires 100 points and points can be earned in Started (5 points per pass), Seasoned (10 points per pass) and/or Finished (15 points per pass). However, 60 points must be earned in Finished with a maximum of 40 points from Seasoned. If 10 points were earned in Started, then a maximum of 30 points can come from Seasoned.

Watch an AKC Master Test or an HRC Finished Hunt Test.

 

HRC Upland hunt tests

The Upland Hunter stake is designed for dogs trained to the Finished level. However dogs don’t need to have any titles before entering an Upland test.

There is a simulated walk-up followed by a quartering test where the dog will locate and flush at least two birds. The handler must aim, track and shoot a popper at birds his dog flushes, keeping gun safety in mind. Once the handler has fired a shot, the official guns may shoot the bird, if it can be done safely. The dog must retrieve any birds shot for him and must honor another dog. Each passing score earns the dog 10 points with 40 points needed to earn an Upland Hunter (“UH”) title.

Watch an HRC Upland test.

 

Master National vs International Grand Hunt

These events are very different from weekend hunt tests. Dogs must qualify to enter, their work is held to a higher standard, and the events are run over several days.

To qualify for the Master National, the dog must have passed six Master tests between August 1 of the year before the event and July 31 of the event year. There are exceptions for dogs running tests exclusively in Alaska or Canada. A dog that qualified at the previous year’s Master National needs four Master passes to enter. A dog that has the MNH title doesn’t have to requalify.

The Master National Hunter (“MNH”) title requires three passes at the Master National Hunting Test. This title is in addition to the MH title. Unlike other hunt test titles, the owner must request the title certificate and pay a fee.

There is also a Master Amateur Hunting Title (“MAH”) which is similar to the MNH. Dogs must pass the Master Amateur Invitational Hunting Test three times to title. The owner must request the title certificate and pay a fee.

Two Grand Hunting Tests are held each year and are open to retrievers that have earned a Hunting Retriever Championship (“HRCH”) title. There are five series. Two series have multiple mark land tests with a blind retrieve and at least one honor and a diversion. The two multiple mark water tests must have a blind retrieve and at least one honor and a diversion. The fifth series consists of an upland quartering test.

Prompt and precise responses are expected from retrievers at this level. Distances may be longer than any weekend hunt tests. A quad or delayed quad and/or having the dog retrieve in a particular sequence can be used.

Watch a Master National or an International Grand Hunt.

 

Now it’s your turn

Finding tests to enter

Tests in both organizations can be entered online. Go to EntryExpress for AKC or HuntSecretary for HRC. (Note: be sure to check both platforms if you’re running AKC as some tests are showing up on HuntSecretary.)

Entries are limited in HRC and Finished usually fills up very quickly. Seasoned might fill up quickly as well. AKC tests can also be limited but generally only Master. Be sure to check for when entries open and close.

You can run your dog in HRC without a UKC registration, but you’ll pay more, and your dog must be registered within 60 days of earning points or you forfeit those points. Note: it often takes a month or more to get your registration from UKC.

Preparing to go

Start a list of what you should bring so you’re not scrambling at the last minute. For example, you might include a collar, leash, whistle, duck call, crate, bug spray, sunscreen, sunglasses, rain gear, jacket, rubber boots and/or waders, water, shade, fan for hot weather, camera or cell phone with a camera (be sure to turn off the ringer), chairs, sunshade, coolers with drinks, snacks, and lunch.

Don’t forget “dark or customary hunting attire” for AKC tests. Or all camo for HRC tests. If your family or friends are coming make sure they don’t wear anything white or neon colored.

Spray all your clothes with insect repellent about 3-4 days before the test and seal them in plastic bags until the day of the test.

Re-read the pertinent portions of the rule book.

And don’t forget your dog! Don’t laugh – it’s happened.

Also, be aware of what not to bring: training aids such as an e-collar, heeling stick, prong collar, choke chain, and especially a female dog in season.

Morning of the test

Be sure you know where and when you’re to meet and how to get there.

When you get there, check in with the hunt secretary at the headquarters and pick up a catalog. I mark my dog’s number on the catalog, or if I’m running more than one dog I’ll write their numbers on the back of my hand.

If you have a female, check where to take her so she can be checked. Females in season, cannot run the test.

Air your dog on a leash and pick up any solids. Be sure to listen for the call to gather. The hunt chair will tell you where the stakes are located, restroom locations, where to park, and rules for these grounds. No smoking and staying on roads are common rules. They will also have you go as a group to your stake.

When you get there, grab your whistle and duck call, and make sure your dog is comfortable with water and shade. Then go find the marshal and check in. If you’re also running in another stake, let the marshal know. Sometimes the running order will be modified so handlers with several dogs that are running multiple stakes can finish one stake quickly. Be flexible if that happens.

Handlers meeting

When the judges are ready, they will call for a handlers meeting where they will describe the test and what they expect. They will also go over gun safety. Even fake guns must be treated as loaded when you’re at a hunt test.

A test dog will run to demonstrate the test, and judges will answer any questions. If you don’t understand something, ask. The only stupid question is the one not asked. Be sure to check where the gallery can gather and pay attention to any other instructions given.

Airing your dog

Ask the marshal where you can air your dog because you don’t want air him where the next series will be run. Keep your dog on leash unless you are a very long way away from the line. Your dog will fail if he runs back and interferes with the running dog. Or worse if he starts a dogfight.

Don’t throw a bumper for your dog near the test as that can be interpreted as training on the grounds that could lead to your dog failing.

Holding blind etiquette

Dogs can be failed if they see another dog run a series before they run. Do your best to keep your dog inside the holding blind and not peeking around, over, or even under the blind. Also, do your best to keep your dog quiet so you don’t disturb the running dog.

If your dog takes a dump in the blind, let the marshal know so no one has to find it by accident.

To the line

Do not leave the blind until the judges call you to the line. Often they will first ask for your number (make sure you have this memorized) so they can have the correct page open before you come to the line.

If you still have any questions be sure to ask before running your dog.

Sit your dog facing the area of the fall, take your time getting you both ready, and make sure your dog is looking in the right direction.

When you have another handler and dog honoring your dog it’s courteous to ask if they’re ready before signaling to start the test. The honor is only in Senior, Master and Finished.

In an AKC test, let the judges know you’re ready by nodding or waving a hand behind you. Do not turn around or your dog might get up. Wait to send your dog until the judge calls your number. In an HRC test, judges often have you blow a duck call to start the test. You can send your dog once the bird lands (or after the last bird in the case of multiple marks).

You don’t have to send your dog immediately. Be sure he is locked onto the bird’s location and ready to retrieve it first.

In a multiple-mark series, try to decide beforehand the order you want to pick up birds, but also pay attention to your dog. He may scoot a bit to get a better look at a bird. Or he might watch all the birds, but lock onto one once they’re all down. You can tell by watching his head or sometimes just his eyebrows. Ignore that at your peril, unless the judges have told you to pick up the birds in a particular order.

Also, remember to breathe!

Running the next series

Unless the judges have already told you you’re out, wait for the marshal to do callbacks in AKC. If you didn’t pass the first series, you don’t get to run the next series.

However, in HRC, you can run both series. Also, you don’t have to run the second series if you think it might compound any errors your dog made in the first series. Just be sure to tell the marshal so they don’t spend time looking for you.

If you’re still in the running, there will be another shorter handlers meeting and a test dog. Again ask any questions you have.

Although the running order might change, your dog’s number remains the same.

Getting your ribbon

The marshal will tell you when and where ribbons will be given out. Most HRC clubs have a Saturday night social and give out ribbons there, but on Sunday ribbons are often given out shortly after finishing the stake. Usually, they do it at the test headquarters, but check to be sure.

Most AKC clubs will meet at the clubhouse or headquarters after judges have reviewed their judging sheets and discussed passes and fails.

You should go even if you’re sure your dog failed because you can ask the judges why your dog didn’t get a ribbon. Just remember to be polite!

The drive home

Pass or fail, remember the important point is spending time with your dog. Make it a tradition to stop for a hamburger or other treat as a reward for your dog – even if he was a complete dufus!

If you got a ribbon, display it proudly on your dashboard. Take a picture and post it on social media. If it’s your first pass or maybe the first pass at an upper level, shout it from the rooftops!

And even if you and/or your dog totally bombed, someday you will look back on this day and smile. Believe me. I know.

Ready to do it again?

I hope so!

Take stock of how you and your dog did and what weaknesses you should work on. Make a plan for how you can do better and then work the plan.

Other organizations

There are other retriever competitive associations:

North American Hunting Retriever Association

Super Retriever Series

This post was originally published on January 24, 2022. Edited and updated with new content on August 21, 2023.
Header image courtesy Linda Alexander

“Shed of Arden’s qualities were of the highest: he epitomized an ideal. …By those who are knowledgeable, he was considered to have embodied the greatest qualities a Retriever can possess in equal parts: looks, performance, and the priceless gift to transmit these from generation to generation.”

~ Helen Warwick, Lockerbie Labradors

SHED OF ARDEN’S STORY

3xNFC CFC DUAL CH Shed of Arden is one of the best-known Labrador Retrievers in history, but what do we know about him and his family?

Shed was born March 26, 1939, and bred by William Averell Harriman who owned Arden kennels. Paul Bakewell III of Deer Creek Kennels bought Shed as a young dog.

There’s a story that his siblings were all named for fish and that he was supposed to be Shad of Arden. Due to a clerical error he became Shed instead.

Black Lab puppies, including Dual Champion Shed of Arden

The Arden ‘fish’ litter, including Shed, Bass, Marlin, Trout.

COMPETITION

Show competition

Although Shed often competed in the show ring and field at the same time, he started his career in the show ring. At 14 months old he won Winners Dog and Best of Winners for a 5-point major at the Labrador Retriever Club’s specialty show in 1940. His older brother, CH Earlsmoor Moor of Arden, won Best in Specialty at that show. A week later the brothers repeated their wins at another show with another major for Shed.

He finished his show championship 15 months later with two Best of Breed wins and a Group 4th.

Field Competition

Retriever field trials in America were still in their infancy when Shed was born. It was only nine years since his uncle, NFC Blind of Arden, won the first field trial.

Shed started his field career with a Derby second at 20 months, still owned by his breeder.

The next year he started earning points in field competition. By the fall of 1942, he had finished his field championship to become a dual champion. He also qualified for the National Retriever Championship.

First National Championship

As a 3-year-old, Shed won his first National Championship. He was handled by Lt. Bakewell who was on leave from the Navy Air Corps.

Madison, Wisconsin hosted the National on December 4-6, 1942. The weather was cold. “The Yahara River and adjoining marshes which ordinarily afforded everything desired for water tests were frozen solid…. This necessitated moving the water tests to the University of Wisconsin property along the shores of Lake Mendota. Heavy ice floes made it dangerous for dogs to get into the water. Several refused to enter, others only after repeated commands.” 1

Shed returning with a bird out of the Icy conditions on Lake Mendota.

Icy conditions on Lake Mendota. Photo courtesy American Kennel Gazette.

“The weather was bitter and difficult on the great gallery, but it was weather to be expected in the final week of the Wisconsin duck hunting season and no dog who could not meet these conditions could rightfully aspire to the national title.” 2

“To win, Shed had to show supreme ability to bound over frozen hummocks in quest of pheasants and to break sheets of ice in swimming after ducks. In fact, it is hard to imagine more trying conditions than those which the dogs, their handlers and the gallery faced during the three days of the stake. The thermometer was never far from zero, and frequently was below that mark….” 3

Eighteen dogs started, but only five finished, including two owned by Bakewell – Shed and FC Stilrovin Super Speed. The other finishers were FC Hiwood Mike, Patricia of Roedare, and Seaborne’s Black Prince.

Shed delivering a bird to his owner-handler, Lt. Paul Bakewell III.

Shed of Arden delivering a bird. Photo courtesy American Kennel Gazette.

“Throughout the meeting Shed did everything asked of him, and did it brilliantly. Probably the thing that most pleased the gallery was the way that willingness was demonstrated when, in the final water test, he never hesitated a minute in crashing his way out through brittle ice…”  4

Second National Championship

Shed won the National Championship again the next year. He was handled by Clifford H. Wallace because Lt. Bakewell was on active duty.

Bourbon, Missouri hosted the stake on December 3-5, 1943. Twenty dogs started, of those 15 were Labs and five were Goldens. It took two extra series to determine the winner between two dogs – Shed and a Golden Retriever named FC Stilrovin Super Speed. Both dogs were owned by Lt. Bakewell.

Cotton Pershall trained Shed until until it was time to join the Army. At that point, Clifford Wallace took over and guided Shed through the grueling tests in Missouri.

Trophy presentation at the 1943 National Retriever Championship with Mrs Bakewell and Clifford H. Wallace who handled Shd

Mrs. Bakewell with Shed and handler C.H. Wallace. Presenting the trophy was M.B. Wallace Jr, trail chairman. Photo courtesy American Kennel Gazette.

Shed didn’t compete in the 1944 National. However, he did travel to Vancouver, British Columbia in October where he finished his Canadian Field Championship.

Third National Championship

World War II ended in 1945 after Germany surrendered in May and Japan surrendered in September. That November Shed and Bakewell were back to compete in the National Championship. This time it was held at Shelter Island, Long Island, New York, which meant a daily ferry ride from Riverhead. The stake was held on November 30-December 2, 1945.

The first day brought blinding snow and sleet which limited the day to only one series. The second day was cold and windy with high tides and northerly winds. The judges ran land tests in the morning and water tests as the tide ebbed. Despite the conditions, only six dogs were dropped.

Although Shed was a finalist, the judges awarded the win to Black Magic of Audlon.

Fourth National Championship

Shed was now seven-years-old, but he continued competing at trials around the country. At a trial in Oregon he had a 300-yard blind retrieve across the tip of a lake for a shackled duck planted several yards off the shore. He was one of only six dogs to complete the series.

In the fall of 1946, Shed reclaimed his crown and is the only three-time winner of the National Championship. It was held on December 6-8. The grounds were good at Crab Orchard Lake, Herrin, Illinois, as was the weather. This is a coal mining area, and the mines were on strike at the time of the National. “… the gallery was augmented by many hundred miners who came to see the event. Some estimated the gallery at 10,000. Traffic presented a bit of a problem.” 5

The 20 dogs entered in the 1946 National Championship Stake.all sitting as they wait for their handlers.

The 20 dogs entered in the 1946 National Championship Stake. Photo courtesy American Kennel Gazette.

Twenty dogs started the stake and eight finished.

In the final series, Shed faced off against three tough competitors. They were his kennel mate, Dual Champion Little Pierre of Deer Creek, plus FC Scoronine of Deer Creek, and a Golden retriever named Stilrovin Nitro Express.

“Scoronine led the field until the last day, then refused to plunge into the 45° water. Now it was Shed’s turn.

“In the toughest test, he had to find two dead ducks which had been planted among the rushes across a 150-foot-wide bay. Shed waited calmly at the water’s edge until he got the signal from Bakewell. Then he plunged bravely into chilly Crab Orchard Lake, but not with his old zip.

“… One-third of the way across, Shed’s black head turned at a whistle from Bakewell to get directions. He entered the cattails just six feet from where the mallard was hidden, sniffed for a second, found his bird. A few minutes later, Shed did it again, and won his third U.S. championship.” 6

Paul Bakewell receiving the championship trophy for Shed

Paul Bakewell received the championship trophy for Shed’s third national championship win.

Fifth National Championship

Shed ran the National Championship one more time. The 1947 National was again held at Crab Orchard Lake, Herrin, Illinois. The weather was good with only occasional light rain. Twenty one dogs started, but only four dogs finished. These dogs completed the tenth – and the eleventh – and the twelfth series in an effort to determine the winner. The final series was completed in near darkness.

These dogs were:

FC Black Panther, owned by CW Carlson
FC Black Roland of Koshkonong, owned by Wesley Jung
FC Bracken’s Sweep, owned by DE Pomeroy
DUAL CH & 1942 , 1943, 1946 NATL CH Shed of Arden, owned by Paul Bakewell

Bracken’s Sweep, handled by TW “Cotton” Pershall, was crowned the winner.

SHED’S FAMILY

CH Raffles of Earlsmoor Thatch of Whitmore CCW Eng DUAL CH Titus of Whitmore
Tee of Whitmore
Task of Whitmore CCW Toi of Whitmore FTW
Eng CH Teazle of Whitmore
FC Decoy of Arden Odds On FTW The Favorite FTW
Jest
Peggy of Shipton FTW Ronald of Candahar
Gehta of Sigeforda

Click for extended pedigree

His parents

Shed’s sire, Raffles, was Dr. Samuel Milbank’s first Labrador although dogs were always part of his life. His father, Dr. Milbank, Sr., bred Chesapeake Bay Retrievers and terriers. A Scottish surgeon started the junior Dr. Milbank into Labradors when he found and shipped Raffles to him. According to Helen Warwick in The Complete Labrador Retriever, importing Raffles “started a collaboration of Dr. Milbank and W.A. Harriman that molded the fortunes of the Arden kennel, setting a precedent for quality that has never been equaled by any other Labrador Kennel in America.”

Sheds father, Raffles, winning in the show ring

Show champion Raffles of Earlsmoor

Decoy, Shed’s mother, was the second Lab to earn a field trial championship in America. Her full brother, Blind of Arden was the first to earn a field trial championship and also won the first US retriever field stake in 1938.

Sheds mother, Decoy of Arden

Field champion Decoy of Arden

His siblings

Some of Shed’s full siblings included:

  • CH Earlsmoor Moor of Arden
  • CH Earlsmoor Marlin of Arden
  • DUAL CH Gorse of Arden
  • DUAL CH Braes of Arden
  • CH Bass of Arden

Half siblings included:

  • FC Gun of Arden
    – Grandsire of 2xNFC Spirit Lake Duke and great-grandsire of DUAL CH CFC Ridgewood Playboy and CH Whygin Gentle Julia Of Avec
  • Marvadel Cinders
    – Dam of Can DUAL CH Coastal Charger of Deer Creek and NFC AFC Marvadel Black Gum

His titled offspring include:

Dual CH Grangemead Precocious

CNFC FC AFC Ardyn’s Ace of Merwalfin
FC AFC Bigstone Bandit
CFC Chanbar Jigaboo ***
CH Chukker of Bonniehurst
NFC AFC Creole Sister
FC Dacity Bill
CH Dauntless of Deer Creek
CH Deer Creek Black Ace
FC Firelei’s Hornet
FC CFC Jibodad Gypsy
CFC Nelson’s Black Prince
FC Pickpocket for Deer Creek
CH Snikeb’s Cookie
CH Trixie’s Black Cargo ***
CH Wardwyn Jackpot

Shed’s descendants at Justamere Ranch:

Chip descends multiple times from Shed. Those bloodlines include:

NFC Dual CH CFC Bracken’s Sweep
Dual CH Grangemead Precocious

CFC Chuck of Bracken
FC Dacity Bill
FC Freehaven Muscles
FC Gilmore’s Peggy
FC Shoremeadow Tidewater
FC AFC Tar Baby of Hilly Hill

Dee also descends multiple times from Shed. Those bloodlines include:

Dual CH AFC Alpine Cherokee Rocket
Dual CH Cherokee Buck
Dual CH Grangemead Precocious
Dual CH Ridgewood Playboy
Can Dual CH Coastal Charger of Deer Creek
Can Dual CH Dart of Netley Creek

FC AFC Air Express
FC Beautywood’s Carbon Copy
CNFC FC AFC Belle of Zenith
FC AFC Bigstone Bandit
FC AFC Black Cougar
NAFC FC Bracken’s High Flyer
FC AFC Canis Major’s River Bear
CFC Chanbar Jigaboo QAA
CFC Chuck of Bracken
NFC AFC CFC Cork of Oakwood Lane
FC AFC Cougar’s Rocket
CFC Craigend Rock
CFC Crevamoy Iron Duke
2xNAFC FC Dee’s Dandy Dude
FC Deer Creek’s Bewise
2xNFC CNFC AFC Del-Tone Colvin
NAFC FC Dude’s Double or Nothin’
FC Firelei’s Hornet
FC Freehaven Muscles
FC Gilmore’s Peggy
FC AFC Ginger’s Choc August
FC AFC CFC Grady’s Shady Ladee
NAFC FC CFC Guy’s Bitterroot Lucky
AFC Jilly Girl
FC AFC Les Coup De Grace TD
FC Luka of Casey’s Rocket
FC AFC Meg O’Tar
FC Martens Little Bullet
FC Martens Mister Nifty
FC AFC Mon Tour De Force
FC Mueller’s Stormy Canada
FC Nelgard’s Counter Point
CFC Nelson’s Black Prince
FC AFC Paha-Sapa Chief II
AFC Penny Girl
FC AFC Raider’s Piper Cub
FC AFC Rip’s Bingo
2xNAFC 3x CNFC FC River Oaks Corky
NAFC FC River Oaks Rascal
FC AFC River Oaks Way-Da-Go Rocky
FC Roy’s Rowdy
FC AFC Serrana Sootana of Genesee
Shamrock Acres Windridge Samba CDX
FC AFC Shed’s Prince of Garfield
NFC 2xNAFC Super Chief
FC AFC Tar Baby of Holly Hill
2xCNFC AFC Tar Baby’s Little Sweet Stuff
FC AFC Toni’s Tar
FC AFC CFC Trieven Thunderhead
FC AFC CFC Triple Echo
FC AFC Trumarc’s Raider
AFC Westwinds Shadow of Hope
2x NFC Whygin Cork’s Coot
CNFC FC AFC Yankee Clipper of Reo Raj
FC Zipper Dee Doo

and
CH Dauntless of Deer Creek
CH Rupert Dahomey
CH Whygin Poppitt
CH Woodcroft Daisy,

 

CONCLUSION

During his career, Shed earned both US and Canadian Field Championships and a US show championship which qualified him as a DUAL champion. He also ran in five national field championships – winning three times and finishing as a finalist the other two times. At one point his owner turned down an offer to buy him for $10,000 (equivalent of about $150,000 today).

Sometimes the descriptions of field trials from years ago sound more like hunt tests. Don’t be fooled. The tests were real hunting scenarios. On the East Coast, birds were often thrown from a boat well out in the mouth of a bay. An outgoing tide could carry that bird out even farther. Trials were held even if the temperature was below zero, but jumping into frigid water and breaking ice was one of Shed’s specialties. A trial he won as a seven-year-old, included “a 300-yard blind retrieve across the eastern tip of the lake for a shackled duck that was planted several yards from the opposite shore.” 7

He was a good ‘un.

3x National Field Champion, Canadian Field Champion, Dual Champion SHED OF ARDEN

Whelped: March 26, 1939
Owner:  Lt. Paul Bakewell III, Deer Creek Kennel
Breeder:  W. Averill Harriman, Arden Kennel
Registration:  A-330767

Abbreviations:

CH – Show champion
FC – Field trial champion
NFC – National field trial champion
CCW – English Conformation Certificate winner (not a title)
FTW – English Field trial winner (not a title)
CFC – Canadian field champion

Notes:

[1] The National Retriever Field Trial Club, 1941-1960, 62.

[2]  “Victory Well Earned”, New York Times December 12, 1942

[3]  “Dual Ch. Shed of Arden Wins Retriever Championship”, American Kennel Gazette, January 1943, 65.

[4]  Ibid

[5]  The National Retriever Field Club, 1941-1960, 79.

[6]  “Sport: An Old Dog’s Day”, Time magazine, December 23, 1946

[7] “Shed of Arden Wins Oregon Open All-Age”, American Kennel Gazette, June 1946, 92.

 

An annual eye exam can help identify problems early, but it also helps breeders make good decisions about which dogs are suitable for breeding.

Some eye problems are due to injury, some are due to age and other problems may be genetic.  An eye specialist can determine the cause of a problem and provide treatment options, if necessary.

For many years the exam was known as CERF based on the Canine Eye Registration Foundation. Recently it’s changed to CAER (Companion Animal Eye Registry) which is affiliated with the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (“OFA”).

WHY IT’S IMPORTANT

An annual eye exam should be included in every breeder’s health care plan because many eye problems are genetic and can affect puppies. Unfortunately many eye diseases have not been studied adequately due to time and funding shortages. In these cases the ophthalmologist relies on informed opinions and statistical information. Other disorders have a known genetic basis and testing can often be done by sending a cheek swab to a lab for analysis.

Puppies as young as 21 days can be examined. The exam should be repeated annually, at least through the dog’s breeding career.

Eye exams are also a good idea for dogs that won’t be used for breeding as problems are often easier to treat when they’re caught early.

WHO CAN DO THE EXAMS

These exams can only be done by a board-certified ophthalmologist.

Although your regular veterinarian has had some training in eyes and vision, unless she has had several years additional training and passed the American Board of Veterinary Ophthalmology certifying exam, she is not qualified to do these exams.

There are several ophthalmologists in the greater Denver area, a few around Fort Collins/Loveland and a couple in Colorado Springs. In surrounding states, there are none in WY, four in UT, three in NM, one in NE, and five in KS. Use the search function to find an ophthalmologist near you.

Each one sets their own price and currently they range from $45 to over $100. Another option is contacting a local dog club, particularly one that hosts dog shows. Occasionally they will also host a health clinic during the show. Many only offer eye exams, but others might offer cardiac testing, vaccinations, blood draws for heartworm and/or genetic testing. Often the testing is done at a reduced price. Because they’re popular, you need to sign up as soon as the testing is announced.

WHAT HAPPENS DURING THE EXAM?

The exams are screenings performed by board certified veterinary ophthalmologists to check for changes within the eye that indicate one or more eye diseases. The exams can be done at their office or sometimes at special clinics held at dog shows and other events.

You’ll start off by filling out a form with your information and your dog’s information including: registered name, registration number, date of birth, sex, breed/variety, permanent identification (via microchip or tattoo). An assistant will also use special eye drops to dilate the eyes. Expect dilation to last 6-8 hours. After about 15 minutes or so, you’ll meet with the ophthalmologist in a darkened room.

Note: Some breeds need to be examined before and after eye drops. They include:

  • Australian Shepherd
  • Dalmatian
  • Louisiana Catahoula Leopard Dog
  • Miniature American Shepherd
  • Miniature/Toy Australian Shepherd

The exam often starts externally, looking for things such as injuries, eyelashes rubbing the cornea or growing where they shouldn’t be growing. The vet will use other equipment to magnify the interior of the eye looking for tiny anomalies in the lens, cornea and middle chamber of each eye. Then all parts of the retina are checked. Sometimes there are mirrors in the equipment that allow you to see exactly what the vet sees.

The exam generally only takes a few minutes, depending on how well your dog cooperates. Afterward you’ll get a copy of the exam form.

 

EYE DISEASES

Although there are many eye diseases that can affect dogs, very few have been adequately studied. Such studies require large numbers of related animals, sometimes several generations of dogs, and often the diseases don’t manifest until the dogs are older.

Currently there are 10 diseases with evidence that they are inherited or cause a significant problem. Signs of these diseases require an automatic fail on the eye exam.

Other diseases are presumed to be genetic, but lack a peer-reviewed study showing the mode of inheritance. These will show on the form as a “breeder option.”

 

SUBMITTING TO OFA

You can send the form with a small fee to OFA for certification. If your dog has passing results (including “breeder option”) you’ll get a certificate and the results will be posted on the OFA website. If the results weren’t passing, you can send those to OFA as well. There is no charge and no certificate. You can also choose whether to make those results public or not.

Certification needs to be repeated annually.

“…undoubtedly the one to whom most credit is due for the rise in the popularity of Labradors in the U.S.A.”

– Labrador Retriever Club Yearbook, 1931-1944

Imagine, if you will, the sprawling mansions, huge parties, and nouveau riche of The Great Gatsby era. The Great War had ended, Prohibition brought speakeasies and organized crime, and the stock market crashed. It is in such a setting we find Jay Carlisle and his Wingan Kennel.

Born in Brooklyn in 1868, Carlisle was a stockbroker and the Governor of the American Stock Exchange during the 1929 crash. His wife was Mary “May” Pinkerton Carlisle. (Yes, that Pinkerton family.)

They were avid collectors and built their estate – called “Rosemary” – in East Islip, Long Island, New York. According to Harry W. Havemeyer in Along the Great South Bay, the Carlisle estate “…was one of the showplaces of the East and was decorated with the very finest antique furnishings in the most tasteful way.”

Image courtesy East Islip Historical Society – www.eastislip.org

Image courtesy East Islip Historical Society – www.eastislip.org

 

Carlisle was a sportsman. He had horses that ran on the track and a stable of show horses. He rode to hounds and played polo. He fished and he hunted.

We pick up his story when Carlisle turned his attention to Labrador Retrievers.

 

STEP 1 – IMPORT THE BEST LABRADORS

Jay Carlisle liked a good-looking dog, but he wanted more. He wanted dogs that could win honors in the field and in the ring. Like many early breeders, he wanted a Dual Purpose dog.

After breeding, raising, showing, and racing horses, he developed a good eye and liked Labrador Retrievers.

However, in the early 1930s, the Lab was still new to America and field trials were just getting started. Carlisle vowed to make the breed as popular in America as it was in Britain.

Although you could say he jumped in with both feet, he actually took the time to study bloodlines. He knew the qualities he wanted in a dog – an acceptable show record and qualified in the field.

Peg was offered for sale for $1700. Today’s equivalent is about $30,000.

After researching, he imported nine of the finest Labs to start his kennel. The best of these was English Champion Drinkstone Peg of Wingan. She was born in 1927 and bred by Dr GH Monro-Home of Scotland.

Of the other eight Labs, three came directly from the Right Honorable Lorna, Countess Howe.

Eng Am CH Drinkstone Peg of Wingan

Peg was sensational in the show ring and earned nine Challenge Certificates which are similar to ‘winning the points’ in America. Three certificates were enough for a championship, but she kept on winning. She also won her show championship in America.

In England there is a ‘show championship’ and a ‘full championship’. A full championship requires the dog to prove it can work in the field as well as win in the show ring. Peg earned her working certificate at the International Gun Dog League retriever trails in 1930 and became a full champion.

“The fact that Drinkstone Peg had carried off 172 prizes at the 68 shows where she was exhibited during her five years in the ring did not weigh as heavily with Mr. Carlisle as her potentialities as a brood matron. Knowing the true principals of breeding, he realized that if his Wingan Kennels was to succeed, it must start off with the right sort of stock. For that reason, he not only purchased Drinkstone Peg, but had her mated to England’s greatest sire and greatest Labrador in the ring today, Dual Ch. Bramshaw Bob, owned by the Countess Howe.” 1

Bramshaw Bob was a top show dog and twice won Best in Show at Crufts 2 handled by Lorna, Countess Howe. Two months later Peg whelped seven puppies at Carlisle’s Wingan kennels.

After her maternal duties, she went back into the show ring and continued winning even as an older bitch. One of her big wins was Reserve at the Westminster Kennel Club show in 1934.

Eng Am CH Drinkstone Peg of Wingan
– BLF, dob 4/18/1927
Toi of Whitmore FTW Tyg of Whitmore
Bute of Trentham
Eng CH Pride of Somersby Brayton Siddy
Juno of Somersby FTW

CH Drinkstone Pons

Another dog Carlisle imported was Drinkstone Pons. He was Peg’s son by English Champion Banchory Danilo. He was also bred by Dr Monro-Home.

“Starting his show career as a puppy in March, 1932, Pons carried off, in one year and a half of showing, a total of 111 prize ribbons, consisting of 66 firsts, 30 seconds and 15 thirds.” 3 He often won best Labrador, best retriever and/or best gun dog.

Pons won Best of Breed at the Westminster Kennel Club show – twice – and in 1934 also won second in the group competition. And he won Best in Specialty Show at the annual Labrador Retriever Club Inc. show in 1934.

In 1934 he started running and placing in field trials. He won the Open novice stake the the Brookhaven Game Protective Association trial with kennel mates Night Light and Ben taking second and third. A New York Times reporter said “The placed dogs showed the influence of the highest breeding, combined with thorough training. All the Wingan representatives exhibited intelligence in their hunting, with a minimum of direction from their handler.” 4

CH Drinkstone Pons of Wingan
– BLM, dob 5/11/1931
Eng Ch Banchory Danilo FTW Eng Dual Ch Banchory Bolo
Munden Scarcity
Eng Am Ch Drinkstone Peg of Wingan Toi of Whitmore FTW
Eng Ch Pride of Somersby

Drinkstone Mars

“Drinkstone Mars of Wingan is another outstanding one. He also has rolled up a splendid record on the bench, and in addition took his certificate of merit under such exacting judges as the Countess Howe, Hon. Mrs. Hill Wood, and Capt. C. Herseltine.” 5

He was a littermate of Pons, and they often won the brace class together. He won the points at the Labrador Retriever Club Inc. annual specialty show in 1934. He also won in field trials.

Drinkstone Mars of Wingan
– BLM, dob 5/11/1931
Eng Ch Banchory Danilo FTW Eng Dual Ch Banchory Bolo
Munden Scarcity
Eng Am Ch Drinkstone Peg of Wingan Toi of Whitmore FTW
Eng Ch Pride of Somersby

CH Liddly Bulfinch of Wingan

Another import was Liddly Bullfinch of Wingan, bred by H.A. Richardson. He won about 50 firsts at championship shows and certificates of merit at field trials. He won the points at the Labrador Retriever Club Inc. annual specialty show in 1935. Bulfinch finished his championship with a 4-point win at the Long Island Kennel Club show in May 1936.

“This dog is another true black and is well set up in every way… Incidentally, both Bullfinch (sic) and Pons were winners at the 1933 Kennel Club Show.” 6

CH Liddly Bulfinch of Wingan
– BLM, dob 2/7/1932
Eng CH Tar of Hamyax Toi of Whitmore FTW
Sunshine of Fasham
Delyn of Liphook Eng CH Banchory Danilo FTW
Ridgeland Black Diamond

FC Banchory Night Light & CH Banchory Jetsam

Banchory Night Light and Banchory Jetsam were littermates sired by Blackworth Midnight. They were bred by Miss L. Croad of England.

In 1935 Field and Stream Magazine began offering a challenge trophy to the dog that earned the greatest number of points. Only competition in Open All Age Stakes counted.

“Outstanding among the retrievers was the Labrador Banchory Night Light, owned during the year by the late Jay Carlisle of the Wingan Kennels of East Islip, L.I., and now the property of his handler, David Elliott…

“… The contest among the retrievers was much closer than among the springers. Banchory Night Light gained a total of 12 points, as compared with the 10 points compiled by the same owner’s Banchory Varnish of Wingan and 8 points each for Glenairlie Rover and Champion Blind of Arden.” 7

Night Light was a Field Champion and major pointed in dog shows. Jetsam was a Show Champion which included winning the points at the Westminster Kennel Club show in 1934.

Night Light’s daughter, Tops of Bigstone, produced several quality dogs including Dual CH AFC Matchmaker for Deer Creek, FC AFC Ladies Day at Deer Creek, and Kingdale’s Ink Spot ***. 8

It’s interesting that Night Light carried the chocolate gene while his sister, Jetsam, carried the yellow gene.

FC Banchory Night Light of Wingan

CH Banchory Jetsam

FC Banchory Night Light of Wingan
CH Banchory Jetsam
– BLF, dob 1/1/1932
Blackworth Midnight Eng CH Wilworth Rip
Brookstone Jet CCW
Dinah of Wongalee Eng CH Beningbrough Tangle FTW
Wendy of Wongalee

Banchory Dapper

Banchory Dapper was a half brother of Night Light and Jetsam, all sired by Blackworth Midnight. He was nice enough to win a 5-point major at the Labrador Retriever Club Inc. specialty show in 1934.

 

Banchory Dapper
– BLM , dob March 1932
Blackworth Midnight Eng CH Wilworth Rip
Brookstone Jet CCW
Banchory Student Eng CH Banchory Danilo
Eng CH Pride of Somersby

Orchardton Doris of Wingan

Orchardton Doris was bred by S.H. Carruthers and worked as a field dog in Scotland.

After coming to America she was described as “a high class bitch with beautiful style, great pace and very keen… She and her handler, Dave Elliot, gave a beautiful exhibition of giving and taking direction to an unmarked fall by hand and whistle, without undue disturbance of ground on either side. She has an invariably excellent pick-up, carry and delivery.” 9

“In triumphing in the amateur stake, Orchardton Doris of Wingan, … showed to superb advantage. She was a brilliant performer in the field at all times, marking the fall of the birds well and retrieving in a speedy and expert manner.” 10

Doris also had several wins in the show ring.

She was the mother of Pons Junior of Wingan and Wingan’s Daily Double and the grandmother of FC Timber Town Clansman.

Orchardton Doris of Wingan FTW
– BLF, dob 12/31/1930
Eng Ch Ingleston Ben Duke of Kirkmahoe FTW
Ingleston Nancy FTW
Orchardton Dawn Eng CH Brocklehirst Donner
Hardies Choice

Eng Sh CH Am CH Banchory Trump of Wingan

The ninth dog, Banchory Trump, stayed in England until he finished his show championship. After coming here, he finished his American show championship with Best of Breed wins at the Westminster Kennel Club dog show and at the Labrador Retriever Club Inc. specialty.

Trump finished his show championship within a year and started winning numerous Bests of Breed awards. He also placed in the group several times.

His Best of Breed winning streak included the following shows:

  • Greenwich Kennel Club, 6/1/1935
  • Morris & Essex, 5/23/1936
  • The Labrador Retriever Club Inc, 6/27/1936 – Best In Specialty Show
  • Ox Ridge Hunt Club, 8/15/1936
  • Morris & Essex, 5/29/1937
  • The Labrador Retriever Club Inc, 6/18/1937 – Best In Specialty Show
  • Westminster Kennel Club, 2/10-12/1938
  • International Kennel Club, 4/2-3/1938
  • Nebraska Kennel Club, 4/6-7/1938
  • Minneapolis Kennel Club, 4/9-10/1938
  • Mankato Kennel Club, 4/14/1938
  • St Paul Kennel Club, 4/16-17/1938
  • St Joseph Kennel Club, 4/23-24/1938
  • Leavenworth Kennel Club, 4/27-28/1938 – Best Of Breed and Group 3rd
  • Kansas City Kennel Club, 4/30-5/1/1938
  • Terre Haute Chapter Izaak Walton League, 5/22/1938
  • Des Moines Kennel Club, 11/12-13/1938 – Best Of Breed and Group 4th

He also excelled as a brood bitch sire. Bred to CH Bancstone Lorna of Wingan he produced Huron’s Lady, the mother of Dual CH Grangemead Precocious. Bred to a daughter of Eng FTCh Banchory Varnish of Wingan he produced Peggy of Pheasant Lawn, the mother of FC Pickpocket for Deer Creek and Bancstone Dinah, grandmother of NFC AFC Massie’s Sassy Boots.

Eng Sh CH Am CH Banchory Trump of Wingan
– BLM, dob 8/21/1931
Blenheim Scamp FTW Balwearie
Blenheim Lady
Lady Daphne Saffrons Bob CCW
Haste

Drinkstone Peg’s British litter

Below are Peg’s puppies by Eng Dual Ch Bramshaw Bob.

Litter bred in England, born in America
– dob 8/7/1933
Eng Dual Ch Bramshaw Bob Eng Ch Ingleston Ben
Eng FTW Bramshaw Brimble
Eng Am Ch Drinkstone Peg Eng FTW Toi of Whitmore
Eng Ch Pride of Somersby

CH Bancstone Ben of Wingan

Owned by J.F. Carlisle

Ben placed in field trials and also did very well in shows finishing his championship with multiple five-point majors.

 

Bancstone Blair of Wingan

Owned by J.F. Carlisle

Although he wasn’t shown much he almost always won his class and even won Best of Breed.

 

CH Bancstone Bob of Wingan

Owned by J.W. Redmond

Bob also finished his show championship with three five-point majors – including at the Westminster Kennel Club dog show in 1937.

 

Bancstone Doctor of Wingan

Owned by J.F. Carlisle

Although Doctor was also shown, he didn’t finish his championship.

 

CH Bancstone Countess of Wingan

Owned by J.F. Carlisle

Countess was another show winner including Reserve Winners Bitch at both the Westminster Kennel Club dog show and the Labrador Retriever Club Inc specialty show in 1935. She finished her championship title with two 5-point and two 4-point major wins.

 

CH Bancstone Lorna of Wingan

Owned by J.F. Carlisle, later by James R McManus

Another Wingan-bred show dog that also finished her championship with three 5-point majors. And she won Best in Specialty Show at the Labrador Retriever Club specialty show in 1935.

Bancstone Peggy of Wingan

Owned by J.F. Carlisle, later by C.H. Mackay

Although she was halfway to her show championship, it appears she never finished her title.

Other Labs

Carlisle had many dogs – some he bought and some he bred. Here are a few of his better known Labs.

Eng FTCh FC Banchory Varnish of Wingan

Owned by J.F. Carlisle, later by Mrs. Kathleen B. Starr (Timber Town)

In April 1937 Varnish won the Open all-age stake at the Long Island Retriever Field Trial Club. He was described as “consistent in his work throughout a long day … in which champions and top field-trial dogs fell by the wayside.” He “did all that was asked of him in his work on land, quartering, taking direction, showing intelligence in his questing and exhibiting nose for his game.” 11

He won the Open stake at the Brookhaven Game Protective Association trial in the fall of 1937. He is said to have “handled very kindly, hunted cleverly, and constantly improved his position. In the second series, his first bird was easy; but the second was dropped across the road in back of motor cars and gallery. The dog worked out the problem, however, and retrieved the bird in grand shape. In the third series, his speed and precision could not possibly escape the notice of the judges while his marking was exceptional.” 12

“There was a cheer from the gallery when the fourth-place winner was announced as that old-time favorite F.T. Champion Banchory Varnish of Wingan, owned by Mrs. Kathleen B. Starr of Islip and handled by Elliot.” 13

Varnish was also pointed in the show ring.

Eng FTCh FC Banchory Varnish of Wingan
– BLM, dob May 1933
Eng Dual Ch Banchory Painter Eng Ch. Peter the Painter
Glenhead Bess
Hawkesworth Glimmer Banchory Tealer
Bramshaw Gloss

Pons Junior of Wingan

Pons Junior won the Brookhaven amateur trial handled by Mrs. Kathleen B. Starr (Timber Town kennels). He was described as making “two grand retrieves in the water test, going out on a surveyor’s line to both ducks.” The stake was judged by Colonel the Lord Vivian, D.S.O., of Britain, and David Wagstaff of Tuxedo Park, NY. 14

He also did well in the show ring including winning Reserve Winners Dog at the Westminster Kennel Club dog show in 1937.

A year later, Timber Town Clansman, a two-year-old son of Pons Junior won the Women’s Field Trial Club non-winners stake. “He did everything correctly, marking, taking direction, swimming fast and straight to his quarry and making faultless deliveries to his handler.” 15

Rear, left to right: Pons Junior, Ebony of Barrington, Banchory Night Light, CH Drinkstone Pons. Front: Whitecairn Wendy, Banchory Varnish, CH Bancstone Ben.

Pons Junior of Wingan
– BLM, dob 4/30/1934
Drinkstone Pons of Wingan Eng FTCh Banchory Danilo
Drinkstone Peggy
Eng FTW Orchardton Doris of Wingan Eng Ch Ingleston Ben
Eng FTW Orchardton Dawn

Okanagan Sandy

Sandy was bred in Canada and was special enough to earn a place at Wingan Kennels. One of the field trials he ran was under particularly difficult conditions.

“Six dogs were called back for the final elimination with the sea pounding on the outer bars, whitecaps making in the inlet and snow squalls driving inland. Dog after dog was sent into the icy water. Suddenly the black clouds closed down and the whole world was shut out by a driving snowstorm….

“Under Elliot’s excellent handling, Sandy gave a first-class exhibition on the first time down in the morning. He was uncertain on his marking, but he took direction beautifully.

“Going out wide to come upwind to locate his bird. He came in speedily to deliver to the approval of those privileged to see the work. His second series work confirmed everything that had been recorded in his favor.

“Sandy’s water work was little short of perfection, he taking to the water with a huge splash, after having marked his two falls, neither of which was too difficult. He never hesitated when the order was given to enter for the second retrieve.” 16

Okanagan Sandy – BLM, dob 4/5/1934
– bred by R. Leckie Ewing, Canada
Beaver of Bryn Banchory Jock
Munden Stigma
Gay’s Vesta Eng Nat’l FTCh Beningbrough Tanco
Eng FTCh Vidi of Adderley

Okanagan Tanco

Tanco was another import from Canada. In Nov 1936, he won the Derby stake at the Labrador Retriever Club trial in Peapack, NJ. As the winner, he brought home the directors’ trophy and $25. Although that doesn’t sound like much it’s the equivalent of over $500 today.

Okanagan Tanco
– BLM, dob 6/17/1935
Okanagan Rusty Beaver of Bryn
Okanagan Gyp
Gay’s Vesta Eng Nat’l FTCh Beningbrough Tanco
Eng FTCh Vidi of Adderley

Orchardton Duce of Wingan

Owned by Jay Carlisle, later by Mrs Eleanor F. Remick

Duce won the Labrador Retriever Club’s Derby stake at 14 months old. Colonel the Lord Vivian, D.S.O., of Cornwall, England judged together with Dr. Samuel Milbank and Francis Squires. The trial was held at Shinnecock Hills in Nov 1937.

Orchardton Duce of Wingan
– BLM – dob approx Sep 1936
Eng Ch Orchardton Donald Eng Ch Ingleston Ben
Orchardton Dawn
Mona Of Ammurrness Eng FTCh Tag of Clava
Queen of the May

Whitecarin Wendy of Wingan

Owned by Jay Carlisle

Wendy won the Open stake at the Brookhaven Game Protective Association field trail in 1935. The weather was described as “almost ideal, the thermometer hovering around the freezing mark, and the wind was just strong enough to make it a sporting proposition for guns and dogs.” 17

Whitecarin Wendy of Wingan
– BLF, dob approx 1933
Ranger of Kentford Gift of Halleaths
Kirkbean Gyp
Lochar Kate FTW Eng Dual Ch Banchory Bolo
Murrayfield Bet

Wingan’s Daily Double

Another Wingan dog deserving of mention is Daily Double. Bred by Carlisle and sold to Howes Burton, an amateur, who handled her himself. She won at the Long Island Retriever Field Trial Club in 1939 and placed second in what was called “fast company” just a week before. The winner in that trial was Earlsmoor Moor of Arden.

However what makes her special is the combination of pedigree and offspring. She was a half-sister to Blind and Decoy of Arden on her father’s side. And a half-sister to Pons Junior on her mother’s side.

When bred to Eng FTCh Glenairlie Rover, she produced Mint of Barrington who in turn sired NFC AFC Marvadel Black Gum “Blackie”.

Blackie was High Point Derby dog in 1946. He won his first Open stake at 16 months of age and finished his field championship the next year. He qualified for eight consecutive National Opens (1946-1953) and won in 1949. He was awarded the Blind of Arden trophy for the best finish of an American-bred dog in the Open stake. And he was admitted to the Hall of Fame in 1995. Blackie was owned and handled by Paul Bakewell III who also owned and handled Dual CH Shed of Arden.

 

Wingan’s Daily Double
– BLF, dob 7/9/1936
Odds On FTW The Favorite FTW
Jest
Orchardton Doris of Wingan FTW Eng CH Ingleston Ben
Orchardton Dawn FTW

STEP 2 – BUILD THE BEST KENNELS

Instead of a heated kennel building with attached runs, Jay Carlisle built condos for his Labs. He felt it would be hard for the dogs to go from a heated kennel to retrieving in icy water.

Each condo was 6×11 feet, made out of redwood and set on 4x4s to avoid rot. The walls were made with clapboards, building paper, and sheathing.

Inside were two rooms – a 5×6 foot vestibule that became a shaded porch in summer and a 6×6 foot sleeping compartment with a hallway to avoid drafts. They even had lights, windows and a hinged roof for cleaning.

The condos were set in 20×30 foot concrete runs with trees for shade. Puppies had a similar set up in a larger grass run.

Nearby was the feed house where they stored supplies and prepared meals for the dogs. Puppies were fed five meals a day – cereal with milk in the morning, cooked beef, raw beef, milk and biscuit and a big-dog meal.

Adult dogs got cooked meat twice a week with commercial food, cod liver oil and yeast. Occasionally they got salmon or raw beef.

Other breeds and their accommodations

In addition to Labs, Carlisle also imported and raised Pointers, Dachshunds and Miniature Bullterriers.

Although he had several Pointers, there were two that stood out. One was a white male named Nepken Carolina Bill who ran in field trials. Bill was considered one of the canniest of the field trial dogs because he knew just where to hunt.

The other Pointer was a show bitch named Pennine Prima Donna of Wingan. She won the points, best of breed and almost always placed in the group when she was shown. She also won Best in Show at Crufts in 1935.

The Bullterriers – all three of them – had a shaded run of about 1/4 acre covered with pine trees. Their condos had portholes for light and ventilation.

The Dachshundes were imported from England and Germany. Their kennel was a 63-foot-long building painted a cheery yellow and green. The front of the building had a huge bay window overlooking boxwood and cedar plants.

Inside, the kennel office was filled with flowering plants, a broad window seat and an antique secretary with a leather-bound book of dog records. Paintings of dogs and shooting scenes adorned the walls and shelves were packed with books about dogs.

Also in the building was a room with a sink and tub and another room to store feed and medications.

A 14×14 foot room in the nearby stable was outfitted as an isolation ward. However it was only used for bitches in season.

STEP 3 – IMPORT THE BEST HELP

While Jay Carlisle was looking for the best Labs, he was also looking for someone to manage his kennel and train the dogs. For that he looked to Scotland where scores of men learned the business as kennel men and game raisers.

With the help of Countess Howe and many others, Carlisle found the right man. In 1934 he brought David D. Elliot to Long Island from Scotland.

A few months later at the Brookhaven Game Protective Association trial they swept all three places in the open novice stake. Drinkstone Pons of Wingan won $50 for first place. That’s over $1000 in today’s currency. Second place and $30 to Banchory Night Light of Wingan. Third place and $20 to Bancstone Ben of Wingan.

Carlisle did indeed find the right man to run his kennel.

David D. Elliot

Elliot grew up near Edinburgh, Scotland, where he learned about sheepdog trials from his grandfather. Watching how the sheepdogs responded to signals gave him the idea to teach signals to Labs. A form of these signals is still used today to guide dogs on blind retrieves.

Lady Howe, Dr. Monro-Holm and David Black (breeder of Peter of Faskally) recommended Elliot as a kennelman for Carlisle. Elliot agreed to come for five years, but instead, he stayed for a lifetime.

In addition to training dogs, he also trained people. They included Dorothy Howe (Rupert), Joan Redmond (later Joan Reed, Chidley) and Kathleen Starr (later Mrs Fredricks, Timber Town). The ladies were sometimes called “Elliot’s Harem.” Cotton Pershall was another person who learned how to handle dogs at Wingan.

Carlisle was pleased with Elliot’s training and thanked him for introducing him to field trialing. The competition made him happy despite the recent death of his wife.

If you’d like to see Elliot and two of his retrievers – Eng FTCh FC Banchory Varnish of Wingan and FC Timber Town Clansman – check out the “Sky Game” video, filmed in 1939.

STEP 4 – PROMOTE THE KENNEL AND COMPETITION

Jay Carlisle registered Wingan as his kennel name in 1933.

He ran ads in a variety of magazines – from the AKC Gazette to Vanity Fair.

He served as President of the Labrador Retriever Club from 1935-1938. During that time he established the Amateur stake and donated a perpetual trophy so the stake would continue.

The Long Island Retriever Trial Association was formed by leading fanciers, including Carlisle, Anthony Bliss, Franklin Lord, Gould Remick, Henry Root Stern, and Leonard Buck. The club’s purpose was to encourage “the breeding, training, and use of retrievers, and … for holding of all-breed retriever trials.” 18

Carlisle published a book in 1936 written by David D. Elliot about Labs and training them. It included training advice and many photos of Wingan Labradors.

“The efforts and absorbing interest of J. F. Carlisle, his participation in trials and at shows, and his generous offering of dogs at stud to new breeders gave the breed a tremendous push forward in this period. He helped to form a nucleus of good material to build upon, together with the superb group of imports… All this gave the breed the right start, and it was not long before history repeated itself, so that the Labrador was on its way to overtaking all the other Retriever varieties in the New World, as it had in the Old.” 19

THE END AND A BEGINNING

Jay Carlisle died in 1937, just eight months after his wife.

He was so respected, that 28 prominent men volunteered to act as pallbearers. A special train transported guests from Penn Station in New York City to Carlisle’s home in East Islip, Long Island.

He was so loved by the retriever community they postponed a field trial so contestants could attend his funeral. However the postponement meant the trial had to be limited in order to finish in one day. This was the start of Limited All-Age stakes.

The Labrador Retriever Club, Inc. set up a Jay Carlisle Memorial Trial. It was held from 1938 to 1941 near his home on Long Island. Mrs. Hill-Wood, Morgan Belmont and Robert Morgan judged the first Memorial Trail.

The contents of his home went to auction in 1938 and his beautiful mansion was demolished in 1940.

But what of his dogs, you ask? Most of the dogs were given to the young Scotsman, David D. Elliot. He also received the specially-modified green and yellow dog wagon and the right to rent the Wingan kennel at a reduced rate.

Although it seems like a sad ending, the dogs did continue competing with Elliot. Many people recognized Carlisle’s contribution to early Labs and field trials in America.

David Elliot (right) with Banchory Night Light winning the Field & Stream Challenge Cup for Outstanding Retriever of 1937.

 

TODAY

Few people recognize the Wingan name today or they confuse it with Helen Ginnel’s Whygin kennel. But Jay Carlisle’s efforts – importing quality dogs, making his stud dogs available to many people, and promoting Labs in the field and in the show ring – helped make the breed as popular in America as it was in England.

I’m proud to have several dogs that trace back to the Wingan Labradors.

— Chip and his descendants trace to –

* NFC Banchory Night Light of Wingan (grandsire of Dual CH Matchmaker for Deer Creek)
* Am Eng CH Banchory Trump of Wingan (grandsire of Dual CH Grangemead Precocious and FC Pickpocket for Deer Creek)
* CH Bancstone Lorna of Wingan (granddam of Dual CH Grangemead Precocious)
* Penney of Wingan (dam of NFC AFC Massie’s Sassy Boots)

— Dee and her descendants trace to –

* CH Banchory Jetsam
* NFC Banchory Night Light of Wingan (grandsire of Dual CH Matchmaker for Deer Creek)
* Am Eng CH Banchory Trump of Wingan (grandsire of Dual CH Grangemead Precocious and FC Pickpocket for Deer Creek)
* Eng FTCh FC Banchory Varnish of Wingan
* CH Bancstone Lorna of Wingan (granddam of Dual CH Grangemead Precocious)
* CH Bancstone Ben of Wingan
* Bancstone Blair of Wingan (grandsire of NFC NAFC CFC Major VI, 1993 Hall of Fame)
* CH Bancstone Peggy of Wingan
* Eng Am CH Drinkstone Peg (dam of the Bancstone litter by Eng Dual CH Bramshaw Bob)
* Orchardton Doris of Wingan (dam of Pons Junior Of Wingan and Wingan’s Daily Double)
* Pons Junior of Wingan (sire of FC Timber Town Clansman and great grandsire of NFC Dual CH CFC Bracken’s Sweep)
* Wingan’s Daily Double (granddam of NFC AFC Marvadel Black Gum)

Notes:

[1] Arthur Frederick Jones, “True Labradors and Traditions Live at Wingan,” American Kennel Gazette, February 1934

[2] Crufts is the largest dog show in the world with over 23,000 dogs competing recently. It was first held in 1891 and has been held annually (except for the war years) in the United Kingdom.

[3] Jones, “True Labradors and Traditions”

[4] Henry R. Ilsley, “Carlisle’s Entries Take All Three Places in Open Novice Retriever Stake,” New York Times, December 29, 1934

[5] Jones, “True Labradors and Traditions”

[6] Jones, “True Labradors and Traditions”

[7] Henry R. Ilsley, “Award of 1937 Among Field Trial Retrievers Won by Banchory Night Light,” New York Times, January 16, 1938

[8] Some dogs have either QAA or *** listed after their names. This means Qualified All-Age. It’s not a title, but rather a way to show that the dog has done well in the minor field trial stakes and is eligible to run in major stakes.

[9] Helen Warwick, “The Complete Labrador Retriever” (New York: Howell Book House, 1965), 137

[10] Emanuel Strauss, “Hollister’s Jet and Carlisle’s Doris of Wingan Lead Retrievers,” New York TImes, November 14, 1935

[11] Staff correspondent, “Carlisle’s Labrador Beats 22 Dogs in Long Island Retriever Clubs Trial,” New York Times, April 18, 1937

[12] Ned Corey, “Banchory Varnish of Wingan First in Brookhaven All-Age,” American Kennel Gazette, December 1, 1937, 94

[13] Henry R. Ilsley, “Earlsmoor Moor of Arden Takes Long Island Retriever Laurels,” New York Times, October 19, 1942

[14] Staff correspondent, “Brookhaven Field Trials Are Marked by Splendid Work and Keen Competition,” New York Times, October 31, 1937

[15] Henry R. Ilsley, “Labrador Handled by Mrs. Starr Is Stake Winner at Huntington,” New York Times, October 11, 1938

[16] Henry R. Ilsley, “Retriever Laurels Annexed by Carlisle’s Dog at Trials Held in Snowstorm,” New York Times, November 29, 1936

[17] ] A.F.J., “Whitecairn Wendy of Wingan Wins Brookhaven’s Open Stake,” American Kennel Gazette, January 1, 1936, 168

[18] Anthony A. Bliss, Chesapeakes column, November 1, 1934, 41

[19] Warwick, “The Complete Labrador Retriever,” 126

Glossary:

BLF / BLM – black Labradror female or black Labradror male
CCW – Challenge Certificate winner (show win, but not a title)
CH – show championship
FTW – field trial winner (not a title)
QAA or *** – the dog has proved himself in the Qualifying stake and could enter the limited Open or Amateur stakes

Super Bowl, March Madness and many exciting games are coming up. Do you put out snack foods and drinks so you don’t miss any of the action? If you do, I’d bet you unintentionally include some people foods dogs shouldn’t eat.

Although sometimes it seems like dogs can eat anything – yeah, even that – they really shouldn’t. Just ask your veterinarian what they’ve had to surgically remove – probably lots of socks, toys, rocks and more.

The problem is some people foods can make them sick or even die.

And unfortunately it’s not that uncommon. According to WebMD, there are “more than 232,000 pet poisoning” cases in the United States every year.

POTENTIALLY DEADLY FOODS

Dogs have different digestive systems and dietary needs than we do. So, although we might eat these foods regularly, they can be poisonous and even deadly for dogs.

  • Alcohol
  • Chocolate
  • Coffee, tea, soda, energy drinks
  • Fruit pits
  • Garlic, Onion, Chives
  • Macadamia nuts
  • Raisins, grapes, currants
  • Xylitol

If you think your dog ingested one of these items, contact your veterinarian for advice. If that’s not possible, call:

ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center

888-426-4435

Or

The Pet Poison Helpline

1-855-764-7661

There may be a fee for help from the above hotlines.

COMMON SYMPTOMS

Depending on what your dog ate, symptoms may start quickly or may take a few days. Here are some symptoms to watch for:

  • Excessive vomiting and/or diarrhea
  • Bloody urine or stool
  • Inability to go to the bathroom
  • Lethargy
  • Irregular heartbeat
  • Difficulty breathing
  • Agitation
  • Obvious signs of pain
  • Seizures
  • Collapse

If your dog ate one of the potentially deadly foods or if you see any of the above symptoms, get him to your veterinarian quickly. The sooner treatment is started, the better the chance of a good outcome.

MORE ABOUT THE POTENTIALLY DEADLY FOODS

Alcohol

Some people think it’s harmless or maybe even funny if a pet gets drunk. What they fail to realize is their different metabolism, and often smaller size, makes dogs more susceptible to the effects.

Dogs seem to be more attracted to the sweeter drinks, such as eggnog, pina colada and daiquiri. However beer is also well liked.

Also be careful with foods that might contain alcohol, such as rum balls at Christmastime. And rotting or fermenting fruit, such as plums that fell from the tree, can cause similar symptoms.

Like people, dogs may be uncoordinated, may vomit or have diarrhea. At higher doses, dogs may have trouble breathing, tremors, heart arrhythmias, low blood pressure, coma and even death.

Chocolate

Yes, yummy chocolate is toxic to dogs. A substance in chocolate, called methylxanthines, contains both caffeine and theobromine. These are stimulants and can cause vomiting, diarrhea, hyperactivity, tremors, pancreatitis, irregular heart function, seizures and even death.

The darker the chocolate, the more dangerous it is for dogs, with baking chocolate having the highest levels of methylxanthines. Some chocolate products may also have other toxic ingredients, such as Xylitol or high amounts of caffeine.

Also be careful of foods that might contain chocolate – ice cream, cookies, cake and other sweets. And be aware on holidays, such as Valentines Day, Easter and Christmas, as chocolate is commonly given as gifts.

If your dog ingests any type of chocolate, even in small amounts, you need to call your veterinarian as soon as possible. Symptoms can take awhile to start – anywhere from a few hours to a day.

Coffee, Tea, Soda, Energy Drinks

Caffeine is the major culprit in these drinks. A small sip may not cause any harm, but ingesting a large amount can cause an increase in heart rate, abnormal heart rhythms and elevated blood pressure. Symptoms usually start within one to two hours after ingestion.

Other symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty breathing, tremors, seizures and even death.

Pets are more sensitive to caffeine than we are. Other potential ingredients in these drinks that can cause harm are Xylitol and high levels of sugar.

Coffee grounds (often used in gardens), coffee beans, instant granules, tea bags, loose-leaf tea are all more concentrated than a sip of a drink. If your dog ingests any of these, call your veterinarian right away.

Fruit Pits

Slices of fruit are generally fine for dogs, but don’t give them whole fruit because seeds and pits contain poisonous cyanide. This includes apples, apricots, cherries, plums, peaches and other fruit with pits.

One or two apple seeds are probably not harmful, especially if they’ve been swallowed and not chewed. But what dog can resist chewing? Chewing releases the cyanide which blocks red blood cells from transporting oxygen. It’s safer for your dog if you slice and remove the core before giving it to him.

Symptoms to watch for include vomiting, panting, bright red gums, difficulty breathing, shock, dilated pupils, irregular heart beat, increased heart rate, seizures, coma and even death.

Canned and preserved fruit often have high amounts of sugar, preservatives or artificial sweeteners which can cause an upset stomach. Dried fruit, such as prunes, can also cause digestion issues.

 

Garlic, Onion, Chives

It may be hard to believe, but plants from the Allium family – including onions, chives and garlic – are not safe for dogs to eat. They contain sulfoxides and disulfides which can damage red blood cells. Damaged red blood cells can’t carry oxygen around the body which leads to anemia.

Garlic contains higher levels of these compounds and is thus more toxic to dogs. A bite of garlic bread might not cause any problems, but raw bulbs of garlic are more concentrated and dangerous. One onion is enough to cause toxic effects. Green onions and chives are less concentrated, but can be dangerous if your dog consumes a large amount.

All parts of these plants – bulbs, leaves, juice and processed powders – are toxic to dogs.

These are also common ingredients in many prepared foods, such as pizza, spaghetti, soups, stews and various meaty dishes. Be careful with leftovers too.

Symptoms can include pale gums, weakness, excessive drooling, discolored urine, gastrointestinal irritation, vomiting, diarrhea, anemia and collapse. It may take awhile, so if you think your dog may have eaten some watch for symptoms for at least a few days.

Macadamia Nuts

According to the American Kennel Club, “These are some of the most poisonous foods for dogs.”

They are a common snack food and can be found in trail mixes and baked goods. It only takes a few nuts to cause severe poisoning. However why these nuts are so toxic to dogs is unknown.

Macadamia nuts can cause depression, weakness, vomiting, abdominal pain, tremors, high fever, lethargy and inability to walk (particularly with the hind legs) and increased heart rate. Symptoms usually appear within hours after ingestion and may last for 24 to 48 hours.

If there’s a chance your dog ingested some, call your veterinarian right away.

Raisins, Grapes, Currants

Although still surprising to some dog owners, raisins, grapes and currants are extremely toxic to dogs. They can cause severe liver damage and kidney failure. Some dogs have died after eating less than a handful of raisins.

Why they are so toxic to dogs is still a mystery. As is why some dogs develop severe symptoms while other dogs can ingest some and seem fine.

According to Merck, “Most dogs with raisin or grape toxicosis develop vomiting and/or diarrhea within 6-12 hours after ingestion of grapes or raisins. Other signs include lethargy, anorexia, abdominal pain, weakness, dehydration, polydipsia, and tremors (shivering).”

More severe symptoms may be seen in 24-48 hours with severe kidney damage.

Raisins are found in many baked goods, such as fruit cakes, raisin bread, bagels, cakes and cookies. They’re also in cereals and trail mixes. Grapes are made into jellies and juice. If you grow grapes or currants make sure your dog doesn’t have access to that area.

Call your veterinarian immediately if you think your dog may have eaten anything containing raisins, grapes or currants.

Xylitol

White sugar is bad for you. So instead food processors are making sugar-free products using a substitute originally made from wood chips or straw. It’s called Xylitol and is an ingredient in many gums, breath mints, candies, desserts, toothpastes and mouthwashes. It’s also found in pet mouth wash and oral rinses!

Unfortunately it can be deadly for dogs.

Xylitol can cause a spike in insulin, leading to a rapid drop in blood sugar levels in dogs. If sugar levels drop too low, your dog could become hypoglycemic with potentially harmful side effects. A higher dose can be life-threatening within minutes.

According to the Pet Poison Helpline, “to achieve a potentially toxic dose, a 10 pound dog would only have to eat one piece of gum!”

Reports of dog poisoning cases involving Xylitol are increasing.

Symptoms may develop within minutes of ingesting Xylitol. Blood sugar drops, the dog could start vomiting and staggering. Collapse and seizures are also possible. Some dogs may not show signs for hours, perhaps because of ingesting a smaller amount.

Within a few days some dogs have developed liver failure. Some dogs have died.

The quicker the dog receives treatment, the better his chance of surviving. He will likely be made to vomit, receive fluids and frequent tests of his blood sugar levels and liver function. This is in-hospital care.

 

OTHER PEOPLE FOODS DOGS SHOULDN’T EAT


Snacks

Potato chips, pretzels and salty snacks:
These products are often very salty which makes pets thirsty and in turn causes urination. Sometimes in the house.

Too much salt can be extremely toxic. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors, loss of coordination, abnormal fluid accumulation, increased body temperature. Higher doses can damage the kidneys and may lead to seizures, coma and death.

Soups and stews can also be high in salt. Driveway de-icers can also contain a high amount of salt.

If your dog has ingested a lot of salt and has any of the symptoms, contact your veterinarian immediately.

Nuts:
Can be dangerous if not chewed well. Salted peanuts can be dangerous if the dog eats many. See the issues with salt above.

Pizza:
A small bite of plain pizza or bread (no spices, garlic, onion, spicy processed meat) should be fine. However the dough is not nutritious and the tomato-based sauce and common toppings can cause health issues. Never give pieces containing garlic or onions.

Popcorn:
Unsalted and unbuttered popcorn is fine in moderation, but make sure there aren’t any unpopped kernels that could be a choking hazard.

Candy:
Don’t give these to dogs. Hard candies can be a choking hazard. Some candies may contain Xylitol which is toxic to dogs. Chocolate can be deadly.

Dairy

Milk:
When puppies are weaned, they no longer need milk. Some dogs can digest milk, but many dogs are lactose intolerant and shouldn’t be offered milk or any dairy product. Symptoms can include diarrhea, vomiting and/or gas, allergic reactions and even pancreatitis.

Cheese:
It’s generally fine in small amounts, except for dogs that are lactose intolerant. It’s also high in fat, so give it sparingly.

Ice cream:
This is a common treat, but some dogs are lactose intolerant. It also contains a lot of sugar and fat. Offer it sparingly, if at all. Also some flavors can be toxic, such as flavors containing chocolate and/or raisins.

Yogurt:
If your dog can digest dairy products, plain yogurt is an acceptable snack. However as in ice cream, be aware that some flavors can be toxic to dogs.

Fatty Meats

Bacon grease:
Avoid giving your dog leftover fat and grease as too much can lead to stomach upsets or even pancreatitis. An inflamed pancreas is painful and may require hospitalization and IV fluids. Some breeds are prone to pancreatitis.

Gravy:
Gravies are often fatty and salty – either of which can irritate your dog’s stomach. They may also contain toxic ingredients such as garlic or onions. However you can make or buy a very lightly seasoned gravy for a finicky eater.

Poultry skin, Ham and other fatty cuts:
As with bacon grease, it’s better to throw these items out.

Other

Avocado:
Some people believe dogs should not eat avocados. This is because the skin, pit and leaves contain a toxin called persin. However dogs and cats can eat it. But “other animals, particularly birds, will find avocado toxic.

Avocados do provide health benefits, but to be safe only give your dog small amounts and only the meat. Remove the skin, pit and any leaves. Dispose of those pieces in a way other animals can’t access them.

Also avoid giving your dog avocado products, such as guacamole, because they often contain ingredients – such as onion – that are harmful to dogs.

Chili peppers:
Don’t give these to dogs. Although they aren’t toxic to dogs, they can irritate their stomach and intestines. They can cause stomach cramping, bloating, vomiting, drooling and/or diarrhea.

Citrus fruits:
Don’t give these to dogs. Lemon, limes, oranges and grapefruits have toxic compounds in the skin and seeds and can cause vomiting and diarrhea.

Cooked bones:
Don’t give these to dogs. Cooked bones can splinter and cause punctures in the stomach and/or intestines. They can also cause choking, digestive upsets and blockages.

Human vitamins and medications:
Do not give human medications to your animal unless directed by the vet.

Some medications meant for people may not work for dogs. They may cause adverse effects, including death.

Mushrooms:
White mushrooms from the grocery store should be okay to give your dog, but don’t let him eat any mushrooms growing wild. “Veterinarians recommend treating all wild mushrooms as potentially toxic and a veterinary emergency.”

Nutmeg:
Don’t give this to dogs. Nutmeg contains myristicin which can cause high blood pressure, increased heart rate, abdominal pain, hallucinations and seizures. If your dog does get into the nutmeg shaker or the pumpkin pie, contact your veterinarian for help.

Potatoes and Tomatoes:
Avoid giving your dog potatoes or tomatoes as both belong to the nightshade family of plants and can be toxic. A ripe tomato should be fine, but the rest of the plant and green tomatoes contain toxic solanine. A cooked potato should be fine, but a raw potato, particularly one that has sprouted or turned green is toxic. Leaves and stems are also toxic. Never give raw potato peelings.

If you grow either in your garden, make sure your dog can’t access them. Stems, leaves and green tomatoes contain higher amounts of solanine. Immature potatoes also contain higher amounts of solanine.

Symptoms of solanine poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy and even seizures. Ingesting large quantities can cause a slowing of their heart rate, vision issue and possibly heart issues.

Rhubarb:
Leaves are toxic and ingestion could cause kidney failure. Symptoms include drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, trembling, bloody urine, lethargy, coma and even death. The leaves are bitter tasting so most dogs will avoid it. If you have rhubarb in your garden make sure your dog can’t access it.

Tobacco:
Although it’s not a food, dogs have ingested cigarette butts, chewing tobacco and liquid nicotine. Symptoms include excessive drooling, tremors, excitement, vomiting, diarrhea, increased heart rate, rapid breathing, constricted pupils, agitation, seizures, blue gums, coma and even death.

Yeast dough:
Yeast is what causes dough to rise. If a dog ingests the dough it may continue to rise and cause gas to accumulate in his digestive system. This can cause severe pain and possibly torsion or rupture of the stomach – a life-threatening emergency. Contact your veterinarian or emergency clinic.

Additionally the yeast and sugar in raw dough ferments and becomes a type of alcohol that can cause alcohol poisoning. Contact your veterinarian if your dog has a swollen belly, stomach pain or is trying to vomit.

The information in this article is not intended to diagnose or treat a health issue. Please contact your veterinarian if you have any questions about your dog’s health.

Banchory Bolo was the first-ever Dual Champion Labrador Retriever.

His is an interesting story. Not just rags to riches, but riches to rags and back to riches. Pull up a chair and learn about the dog who still has an influence on Labradors over one hundred years after his birth.

BOLO’S EARLY YEARS

Bolo was two years old when Mrs. Quintin Dick (later Lorna, Countess Howe) entered his life. She had owned his sire, Scandal of Glynn, who was “a charming and beloved companion and a great game-finder.”

When Scandal died, she wanted to find a dog to replace him. Unfortunately, none of the other dogs she owned could fill the gap his passing caused.

Her husband, Quintin Dick, suggested a son by Scandal. However, during the First World War breeding was restricted and Scandal had only sired one litter. In it, there were 13 puppies of which 12 were females.

The only male – originally named Caerhowell Bully – had been given away by his breeder. When Lorna(1) found him, he was given to her with the advice that if she didn’t want to keep him to have him put to sleep. They told her the dog was “hopeless” and had “an evil temper.”

When she picked him up at the train station, she realized what she’d been told was true. The dog was unkempt, had sores on his ears and he growled at her through the heavy muzzle he wore. Although he had a wonderful pedigree, she debated: Should she keep him or put him to sleep as she’d been advised?

Dual Champion Banchory Bolo

Banchory Bolo

Lorna and Bolo

She must have had a kind heart as she took him home with her. After taking off the muzzle and chain, she turned him loose in a spacious room, but he was distrustful and surly. He wouldn’t come to anyone and it took quite a while to catch him.

Something must have happened to him in his earlier life. Heavy-handed trainer? Malicious kennel help?

He avoided people. When turned out for exercise, he was hard to catch. How could he be trained when he was so distrustful of people? What could soothe the savage beast?

It turns out it wasn’t music, but Lorna’s gentle care. When he became seriously ill, she nursed him back to health. During that time, he realized she was someone he could trust. As he recovered he became devoted to her and was always at her side.

THE STIRRINGS OF GREATNESS

When he started in training, Lorna found he had “a natural love of retrieving, an excellent nose, and a perfect mouth.” However, he also had two failings: he loved chasing rabbits and was terrified of cracking whips. One day when a stable boy happened to crack a whip near him, the fear took over and Bolo blindly sought escape. A tall, spiked gate didn’t stop him from running.

He returned early the next morning, covered in blood. “He had two very deep wounds on his chest, a tear three inches long in his groin and his hind leg and hock torn so badly that the bone was visible.” Because a veterinarian was too far away, Lorna stitched his wounds as he lay still for her.

Her doctoring and subsequent training was well done as the next fall he won a field trial prize. Then he quickly won two field trials and became a field champion. Two years later he also finished his show championship and became the first Dual Champion Labrador.

Lorna said, “He had quite the best nose I have ever seen in a dog and with apparently the greatest ease he would collect runner after runner after several other dogs had failed. I have never had a dog with such great natural ability or one so anxious to please me in every possible way.”

Mrs. Quintin Duck and her Labrador, FT Ch Banchory Bolo

Lorna, Countess Howe and Banchory Bolo

FROM GREATNESS COMES GREATNESS

The genes from several great dogs came together in Banchory Bolo. We have Lord Malmesbury, the Dukes of Buccleuch, and Lord Knutsford (Munden kennels) to thank for their breeding insight and the dogs they produced.

Banchory Bolo’s pedigree:

Scandal of Glynn English FTCh Peter of Faskally Waterdale Gamester
Birkhill Juliet
English FTW Shelagh of Glynn English FTW Scamp of Glynn
Shelagh of Danesbury
Caerhowell Nettle Foxley Kennett Hirsch’s Ranger
Bendysh Bess
Baker’s Nora unknown
unknown
Extended pedigree

His family

Looking backward in time, Bolo’s sire, Scandal of Glynn, was a son of English FTCh Peter of Faskally. Peter won the International Gundog League’s Championship Stake for retrievers in 1911, but it was his partnership with his handler, Archie Butter, that set him apart from the other retrievers.

Butter realized that if a dog could be guided by his handler, the quicker he would be able to find and retrieve game. To do this, he adapted the methods used by shepherds when handling their dogs using whistles and hand signals. We still use a form of this method today.

Peter of Faskally’s pedigree is filled with dogs from the Munden and Buccleuch kennels. Munden Sixty (born 1897) appears three times in Peter’s pedigree and once more in Scandal of Glynn’s maternal line.

Buccleuch Avon

Sixty’s paternal grandfather, Buccleuch Avon (born 1885), was a gift from the third Earl of Malmesbury to the sixth Duke of Buccleuch.

Avon was sired by Malmesbury Tramp (born 1878) and out of Malmesbury Juno (born 1878). Another male, Buccleuch Ned (born 1882), was also a gift. These dogs were bred to bitches that descended from dogs imported originally by the fifth Duke of Buccleuch.

Another great in Peter of Faskally’s pedigree is Munden Single (born 1899). She was sired by Munden Sixty and descended from Munden, Buccleuch, and Malmesbury dogs. She’s best known for being the first Labrador to win a Challenge Certificate and the first Labrador to run in a field trial.

More Munden, Buccleuch, and Malmesbury

Less is known about Scandal of Glynn’s maternal side. His maternal grandfather, Scamp of Glynn FTW, traces to Buccleuch Ned, the other male gifted by Lord Malmesbury. And his maternal grandmother, Shelagh of Danesbury, is mostly from Munden dogs that trace back to the Buccleuch and Malmesbury kennels.

Even less is known about Banchory Bolo’s mother, Caerhowell Nettle, although her father traces back to Peter of Faskally as well.

BOLO’S LEGACY

With all the good genes passed down from his ancestors, it’s not surprising that he also produced well. He sired both show champions and field trial champions.

Bolo’s show offspring

In 1921, he was bred to Brocklehirst Nell (owned by Mrs. Dinwoodie) and sired English Ch Banchory Bluff, English FTCh Nith of Halleaths, and Brocklehirst Daisy FTW. Bluff was the maternal grandsire of English FTCh Balmuto Hewildo. Bluff was owned by Lorna.

Also in 1921, he was bred to Murrayfield Bett (owned by Mr. Dinwoodie) and sired English Ch Brocklehirst Donner. This dog was also owned by Lorna.

Yet another litter in 1921, produced English Ch Beningbrough Tangle. He finished his show championship, including winning the CC at Crufts in 1930 and he also won a field trial. So close to being another Dual Champion! He was bred by The Earl of Chesterfield and owned by Lorna. His mother was Thyme, a daughter of English Ch Ilderton Ben.

In 1922, Bolo was bred to a granddaughter of English Ch Ilderton Ben. Her name was Malta of Lunn and was owned by the Earl of Clarendon. In this litter was a female named English Ch Banchory Kelpie, owned by Lorna.

Breeding dogs all but stopped during World War I. This sent the Munden kennel to the edge of extinction. However Lorna “gave Lord Knutsford a puppy on the condition that he should eventually breed her with Dual Champion Banchory Bolo.”

He registered this puppy as Munden Scarcity. Her sire was English Ch Banchory Lucky and her dam was Banchory Betty. In Scarcity’s litter by Bolo, she produced both English Ch Banchory Danilo FTW and English Ch Munden Solo FTW. Lord Knutsford also kept Singer, a bitch, and another bitch was given to His Majesty the King.

Banchory Danilo

One of Bolo’s best sons

Danilo won 33 Challenge Certificates in the show ring and won the best exhibit in the Kennel Club Show in 1925. He went on to also win two field trial honors in 1924, handled by Lorna. Danilo sired English Ch Drinkstone Pons of Wingan (sire of American Ch Echo of Arden), English Ch Drinkstone Dan, and Haylers Danilo (sire of English Ch Poppleton Black Lancer).

When Danilo’s grandson, Hiwood Risk, was bred to Peggy of Shipton we see some of the Arden dogs, including American National Field Champion Tar of Arden and her offspring – American FC Firelei of Deer Creek, American NFC Black Magic of Audlon, American Dual Ch CFC Little Pierre of Deer Creek.

Danilo’s brother, Munden Solo, also did well at shows. At Crufts in 1927, he competed in ten classes, won six, and placed in three more. The judge wrote of him, ‘If there had been a little more of him in size, I think he would have been very near perfection.’

Bolo sired another English show champion, Banchory Bolo’s Trust, in 1926. His mother was Beaulieu Nance (daughter of English DUAL Ch Banchory Sunspeck).

English DUAL Ch Bramshaw Bob, double-bred on Bolo, won Best in Show at Crufts twice – 1932 and 1933. Lorna bought him from Sir George Thursby and when she took him to Crufts in 1932, Bob won all the classes he was entered in and won Best in Show on the second day.

Lorna said, “Cruft’s Show was, and still is, a great meeting place for gamekeepers. I shall never forget the overwhelming reception they gave Bob when the award was announced; it was so kind of them. They were pleased that a working gundog should receive this much-coveted award.”

Bolo’s field offspring

Bolo was bred to Kirkmahoe Dinah FTW in 1921. This litter included English National FTCh Kirkmahoe Rover, Banchory Corbie FTW, and Choice Of Kirkmahoe FTW.

Banchory Corbie won one Challenge Certificate (show points) and won the 1923 International Gundog League (IGL) Nomination Stake. Then he “broke his shoulder by galloping into a guard post” thus ending his show and field trial career. Lorna described him, “Corbie was in character and temperament all that a Labrador should be. He was highly intelligent, very faithful, a wonderful watch-dog and guard, yet very gentle with children. He had the great game-finding ability which goes with good nose and the brains to use it.”

Banchory Bolo and his son, Banchory Corbie

Another Bolo son was born in 1923, Banchory Roger FTW. He was linebred on English National Ch Peter of Faskally and on Munden Sentry.

Another male, English FTCh Balmuto Hewildo, was also double-bred on Bolo. Instead of winning in the show ring, he won the IGL Retriever Championship in 1936. This is comparable to the National Retriever Championship in the US.

In short, Bolo was a great producer.

A LEGEND

Author C. Mackay Sanderson wrote, “Bolo’s coming may be said to have breathed a spirit of new life into the breed, the prestige enjoyed by this dog as a competitive and stud force giving lasting impetus to Labrador fortunes and subsequently his name runs like a golden thread through all the vital streams of progress.”

“The Field wrote of Bolo: ‘If ever evidence were needed of the character of a great dog, and of his influence on the generations following him, it was to be found at the Retriever Championship Trial held at Idsworth last week [December 1932]. Out of fourteen dogs that won prizes, eight were descended from Banchory Bolo.'”

But Bolo also had another legacy – he tended to throw white hairs on the feet. These ‘Bolo marks’ or ‘Bolo pads’ are still sometimes seen on the bottom of the front feet and/or the back of the front pasterns.

Bolo died in July 1927. It was ten years before Lorna was able to give her heart to another dog.

English Dual Champion Banchory Bolo

Whelped: December 29, 1915
Died:  July 10, 1927
Owner:  Lorna, Countess Howe (AKA Mrs. Quintin Dick)
Breeder:  Sir John S Harmood-Banner
Original name:  Caerhowell Bully
Registration:  KC SB 218AA

1. Although she became Lorna, Countess Howe because of her second marriage, she was known as Mrs Quintin Dick during Bolo’s lifetime. However for the sake of ease, I’ve used her first name here as it’s how she’s known by Lab enthusiasts worldwide.

Abbreviations:

Ch – Show champion
CC – Challenge Certificate (show points)
FCh – Field trial champion
NFCh – National field trial champion
FTW – Field trial winner (not a title)
CFC – Canadian field champion
IGL – International Gundog League

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